While all eyes this week were focused on Raf Simons and his debut Dior couture collection, Hedi Slimane quietly made his debut at YSL Saint Laurent Paris. We already knew that his resort and menswear collections would be shown to buyers only, and they flocked to Paris this week to take in Slimane's first collections for the house. While they were forbidden from taking photos, many were willing to speak anonymously about what they saw.
One retail exec reported that even the hangers, chairs and tables were designed by Slimane--a hint of new retail concepts to come under the rebranded Saint Laurent Paris label, according to WWD. And what about the clothes? Sounds like Slimane mined some YSL classics.
If you need a visual, the Financial Times referenced a Helmut Newton photo from 1975 (at right) for an idea of the vibe. Here are some of the descriptors buyers used, according to WWD and the Financial Times:
• sharp tailoring in fine pinstripes • dresses with "light" shoulder pads • hot pants, cigarette pants, skinny jeans • colors ranged from black, white, and gray to fuchsia and red • "silky, girly tops" • tuxedos with neck-tie blouses • "little silk dresses with bias-cut mini-skirts covered in tiny dots" • bags are "modern & cleaned up" • shoes are "sexier and more aggressive" • the Tribute shoe still exists • menswear: 80s influence, three-button suits, new collars and cuffs
Both news outlets are reporting that buyers were generally positive and enthusiastic about Slimane's collections. We're hoping some pictures of the collections leak, but in the meantime we're really looking forward to his runway debut in October.