INCORPORATING DIOR’S HERITAGE
Mr. Simons carefully studied the archives and decided to concentrate his first efforts on Christian Dior’s decade at his fashion house. That meant tackling the construction of the 1947 “New Look” and, of course, the Bar jacket. Mr. Simons opened his couture show with a deceptively simple new Bar jacket cut slightly longer, so it hit below the hips. There was also a double-breasted version worn belted and as a coat that suggested a less rigorous hourglass silhouette. Proportions were streamlined and cuts were precise to show off the contours of the body.

Paying tribute to Mr. Dior’s love of flowers, the four small rooms at the hôtel particulier were decorated floor to ceiling in blue orchids in one room, red and white roses in another, and so on–a reminder that flowers themselves are incredible architectural masterpieces, not unlike a flawlessly constructed dress. The bright red strapless gown, the acid yellow high waist skirt worn with a sheer stretch long sleeved tee, and the pastel pink strapless dress reflected the colors of the flowers that adorned each of the separate rooms. Happily, the magnificent floral decorations did nothing to overwhelm the clothes.