A MORE STREAMLINED AND ACCESSIBLE APPROACH
Having seen the last three Dior couture shows in the Gianfranco Ferrè era through the entire Galliano years to today, I was not surprised of the lack of those once ubiquitous larger than life ballgowns–those gowns too large for the catwalk and surely too much of an encumbrance for anything in real life. In fact, none of the 54 looks were cut to train on the floor as the models passed by.
In a nod to women’s changing lifestyle, the giant ball-gown is banished from the new couture vocabulary, now replaced by more streamlined versions like a white strapless balloon-skirted gown embroidered with degrade beading that hits at the ankles, or a minimalist ballgown skirt embroidered with blue peonies and paired with a simple long sleeved tee. Perhaps one of the most beautiful passages of the show was the series of elaborately embroidered strapless corset tops that would have been part of a ball gown but now were paired with wool cigarette pants.
In watching many of the extravagant Dior couture shows in seasons past, I had to wonder, even though they were stunningly uplifting, what kind of woman can actually buy and wear these clothes? With this collection from Mr. Simons, there are plenty of real-life options for women. And it will surely give Chanel haute couture’s thriving and substantial commercial business some competition.