The Clothes: Anthony Vaccarello is an up-and-comer by Paris standards. In a town where labels have been around for tens and even hundreds of years, Vaccarello is definitely part of the new generation here. But in just a few seasons he’s already garnered plenty of buzz and major editorial placements thanks to the sizzling slit-up-to-there sex appeal of his clothes. (Remember that hip-revealing black cut out dress that Karlie Kloss wore on his spring 2012 runway? The same one that Gwyneth Paltrow then wore on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar? And who could forget Anja Rubik’s right hip bone on display in a white Vaccarello number at this year’s Met Ball?)
Today’s show at the docks underneath the Cité de la Mode et du Design was as sexy as ever: Even if there weren’t as many hip-bone-exposing slit dresses on the runway there was plenty of exposed skin. Vaccarello stuck to a palette of black and white and molten metallics and lames to show off a collection of filmy silk separates that always looked like they were about to slip off a shoulder and expose something (they never did and I think that was the point). Tops had sparkling Swarovski-encrusted zipper details, which lent the collection a tough biker vibe. Vaccarello’s new version of the slit dress is a drape-y silk top sewn onto a ribbed and rouched mini skirt. A series of metallic animal prints in turquoise and gold towards the end added a punch of color (and veered towards over-the-top-ness) and for the last look, Vaccarrello gave us what we were waiting for: Anja Rubik in a one-shouldered black caftan with a slit so high you could almost see her you-know-what.
The Hair & Makeup: Hair was sexy and undone. A few models even ruffled their hair OG supermodel style as they hit their mark in front of the photographers. Makeup was minimal with strong brows and rosy cheeks–though that could have just been that the models’ cheeks were flushed because it was so chilly and windy and they were wearing next to nothing.
The Soundtrack: Club music.
The Vibe: Everyone got to Paris yesterday bemoaning that they had packed wrong (myself included, and yes I checked weather.com before I left). It was much colder than anyone had anticipated so the fact that the show was set outside by the docks with a chilly breeze blowing off the Seine had everyone bundling up. Carine Roitfeld messed up her all-black outfit to wrap herself in a friend’s purple pashmina. The Times‘ Eric Wilson came straight to the show from COS where he had just purchased a sweater. Still, the starkness of the docks and the Seine as a backdrop proved dramatic and was worth the shivering.
The Front Row: Caroline de Maigret, Theophilus London, Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt.
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Carine Roitfeld.
WTF Moment: The runway was suuuuper long. And it just kept going. After the models (an A-list casting that included Anja Rubik, Arizona Muse, Cara Delevingne, Karlie Kloss, and Jourdan Dunn) walked the length of the cement runway they exited to walk the entire length back on the cobblestones lining the Seine. It looked tricky in heels, and trickier still when the wind from the river kept blowing their tops off.