The Clothes: This was easily the best, most wearable, collection creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sebastian Peigné have put out since Formichetti took the reins at Mugler.
With this fourth collection for the new Mugler, Formichetti and Peigné sent out a collection that mixed Japanese influences (Noh theater and enamel furniture was cited in the line sheets) with inspiration Formichetti found on his “extensive Equatorial travels.” What that meant in terms of clothes was leather envelope blouses tucked into structured flared mini skirts that looked like Samurai helmets. Skirts shown towards the end of the collection were lacquered stiff (like furniture) and tiered like the shell of an exotic beetle. The “Equatorial” part found its way into a color palette that moved from blacks and maroons to bright sunset and ocean hues shown on box tees. Mugler also unveiled their new line of handbags, which were much tamer than we expected–classic and boxy (and apparently inspired by Gaga’s perfect ass). But accessories are they way labels make money, so that makes sense. It seems like Mugler and Peigne are hitting their stride.The Hair & Makeup: Hair was pin straight, parted to the side, with a sheet of hair hanging over one side of the face. Makeup was bare save for a seriously smokey wing-tipped eye. When the eye makeup is that dramatic, best to leave everything else plain.
The Soundtrack: Mugler “music director” Lady Gaga officially unveiled her new track (and her first foray into rap) called “Cake.” The line sheets boasted that it was brand new and un-released even though it leaked online earlier. I was listening closely but I could barely make out Gaga’s voice. She’s a maverick that one! The song was fun though.
The Vibe: The thing I like best about what Nicola Formichetti has done with Mugler is that he’s made it accessible through social media. He even invited anyone and everyone to come to his show via Twitter: “not supposed to do this but fuck it. if you want to see the show tonight, just come and we’ll igure it out.” What that meant is that fashion enthuisiasts of all kinds–not just expensively clad editors and buyers–showed up to the Mugler show and it made it more fun, and more, you know, real. And fashion could always use a healthy dose of reality.
Always on the forefront of digital, this season Mugler also partnered with Twitter to host a Mugler contest–Tumblrs had to submit their electronic interpretations of the Mugler archive through GIFs–and the top five Paris-based entrants got to go to the show and have their work featured on Mugler’s Tumblr. Now that’s fashion democracy. More of that please!The Front Row: the usual wild assortment of Formichetti social media followers plus the Courtin Clarins girls, Leigh Lezark, Sky Ferreira, Azealia Banks, Anna Dello Russo, and NYC nightlife legend Susanne Bartsch, whose hair was done up in a mohawk so high we feared for whomever was sitting behind her.
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection:
WTF Moment: Holy crap that was a long runway.