Gucci Gets Ruffled Up for Spring 2013

It was more is more for designer Frida Giannini, who seemed to find inspiration in Liz Taylor circa the late '60s/early '70s as well as Richard Avedon portraits of Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt.
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Hayley Phelan
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It was more is more for designer Frida Giannini, who seemed to find inspiration in Liz Taylor circa the late '60s/early '70s as well as Richard Avedon portraits of Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt.
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The Clothes: To me, Gucci shows usually mean sleek, sexy styles with plunging necklines and a sophisticated palette. So I was a little surprised when the first several looks came out--hot pink suits, long tunics over pants, turtle neck dresses--and were decidedly covered up (save for their standout color). One frock, a maxi turtle neck number with huge ruffles overflowing the shoulders could even be called frumpy (and on just about anyone other than a size 0 model, it would be). It was more is more for designer Frida Giannini, who seemed to find inspiration in Liz Taylor circa the late '60s/early '70s as well as Richard Avedon portraits of Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt.

Roomy bell-sleeved tunics were paired with wide leg trousers, massive ruffles literally engulfed dresses and tunics, the mini dresses (of which there were few) were roomy with exaggerated rounded shoulders and flared sleeves. A consistently bright palette--think hot pinks, cerulean, turquoise--added to the loudness of the collection. Towards the end, however, the collection seemed more sedated. To me, these were by far the most interesting looks of the collection: Colored snakeskin mini dresses and dress coats gave way to sleek black, then white looks. A favorite of mine was a black evening gown with a spaghetti strap halter neckline and ruffles along the collar bone which gave way to a completely bare back. And we did get that plunging neckline after all: The closing look, worn by Gucci fave Anja Rubik, was a white maxi dress whose voluminous ruffled sleeves were tempered with a seriously low neckline.

The Hair and Makeup: Hair was parted down the center and twisted into a low chignon. The end pieces of the chignon were left out and then somehow styled to stick out in super shiny and sleek angles. Makeup was minimal--loads of bronzer and a smokey eye.

The Soundtrack: Upbeat with heavy bass. Towards the end, the music and lights lowered and the soundtrack was more mellow and instrumental, highlighting the last snakeskin looks.

The Vibe: Held at the same venue Gucci shows at every season, the walls were mirrored (as always) but this time the carpet was beige instead of purple.

The Front Row: Charlotte Casiraghi, Anna Dello Russo, Olivier Zahm, Franca Sozzani

Celebrity We'd Most Like to See Wearing It: Elizabeth Taylor (RIP), Rachel Zoe, Olivia Palermo.

Photos: IMAXtree