As usual, Tom Ford is showing his spring collection here in London to a handful of editors and buyers via private appointments, with his usual strict “no photos” policy.
The closest we got to Tom Ford here in London was seeing Anna Dello Russo front row wearing that zipper back dress from his fall collection that everyone has been wearing lately.
However, people like to talk/tweet, so we learned a few things about Ford’s collection despite not seeing it in the flesh. The inspiration seems to be garbage bags, bandages and perversity. Read on.
• Cathy Horyn, from the NYT:
The collection on Sunday felt completely contemporary, yet still in the Ford glamor mode. The key looks for day were his signature pencil skirt or a pair of biker shorts with a minimalist top, fuzzy sweater, or a semi-fitted hoodie. The biker shorts just seemed fresh again — thanks to Mr. Ford’s polished treatment. He showed one pair with a matching black crepe-de-chine popover top with black patent-leather patches on the shoulders, and gold metallic heels that had been wrapped to resemble wedges. The wedge part was coated in tiny golden spikes, like pins on a sewing cushion.
The evening clothes also had a cool, sporty attitude: long skirts in black or white embroidered silk with deep thigh slits and matching silk hoodies. He said the aim was to create a collection around the words chastity and perversity — and to offer a defining Ford look. He certainly did that. With so many high-end labels milking conceptualism or pushing craft, he seems to know there’s a need for polished clothes that genuinely feel relaxed and a bit undone. Also worth checking out is his new flat shoulder bag in patent-leather and other skins. An extra-large one in black patent makes quite a graphic statement. Perversely, it does suggest a Hefty bag.
• Derek Blasberg, via Twitter:
Tom Ford: Patent leather and high collars and bat wing dresses and noisy chain mail gowns and rope bodices and strappy shin guard boots #LFW
Tom Ford the modern man: Controlled his (drop dead decadent) presentation from his iPad. His two words of reference? Chastity and Perversity
• Elle UK:
Vivid blue entered next – a second-skin pencil skirt in stretch mesh worn with a track top (‘I wasn’t thinking Olympic sport,’ he told one editor afterwards, suggesting she had ‘another sport in mind’. Cue blushes and giggles. Not his.
And then the eveningwear. Nobody really does a ‘gown’ like Mr Ford, the likes of which always make it onto the red carpet’s most beautiful. One long black paper taffeta dress, ballooned elegantly at the back, another in crepe de chine was entirely backless and batwing. But it was the two sinuous long crystal skirts, slashed down the legs and worn with silky hoodies that were the essence of this drop-dead decadent scene. And finally two glistening chainmail dresses, their jangling heard above the music.
To sum up, just one word: Sexy.
• Vogue UK:
“There can be something a little perverse about chastity,” said the designer as he introduced us to a tableau of mannequins working his spring/summer 2013 looks to the full, all sprawled out and entangled among one another. But this was just to whet our appetite…
It was black, it was gold (for strands on heels of wedges that were actually stilettos wrapped in leather), silver, cobalt and nude.
“It’s a bandage colour,” clarified Ford of the latter shade. “There’s something perverse about bandages – it makes you think: is she nude or not nude beneath?”
We think it’s pretty safe to say that the Tom Ford woman is always nude beneath.