The Clothes: We’re predicting an early trend of harness elements for spring–should we blame Fifty Shades? For spring 2013 Wu was inspired by the “erotically charged” images of Helmut Newton and the “dream-like” photos of Lillian Bassman. The result? That magical combo of lady-like meets badass. Wu’s delicate, filmy transparent dresses were topped with tasteful leather harnesses, lots of exposed corset seams, and the most perfect shrunken leather jackets. This being Jason Wu, the effect was never tacky. The palette was fairly muted, with lots of cream and white, perked up by a few pops of bright coral midway through the show. As per usual, Wu’s eveningwear is ethereal and makes you wonder why you never get invited anywhere fancy. Karlie Kloss was mesmerizing in a halter top tulle gown.
The Hair and Makeup: One of Wu’s inspirations this season was Helmut Newton so Diane Kendal (for MAC) gave the girls strong, straight brows and dark red lips. Eyes had a dusting of gold and the overall look had every beauty editor backstage swooning. Odile Gilbert (for Kerastase) came up with a pretty complicated African braid/marcel wave combo for the hair. (In case you’re wondering, an African braid is tighter to the scalp than a French braid.) Said braid was tucked under in back, and the super slick wave on one side added an unexpected element. Dark navy nails came courtesy of OPIs’s “Suzi Skis in the Pyrenees.”
The Soundtrack: Uplifting orchestral. The show opened with Beethoven’s “Moonlight Sonata.” (And I thought those eight years of piano lessons would never have a practical use. Thanks, Mom!)
The Vibe: Raw studio space transformed into a “salon” by painting the floor in a black and white tiled pattern. A floor to ceiling mirror at one end of the runway was slightly tilted, giving the space a sort of down-the-rabbit-hole feel. The sometimes bone-rattling orchestral music gave you the sense that something big was about to happen.
The Front Row: All the glossy editors (Anna Wintour was rocking a Prada suit–or maybe it was Miu Miu?); Anna Dello Russo in a strapless cobalt gown with a huge skirt and carrying tons of her H&M accessories; AnnaSophia Robb who is cute as a little perky button; Courtin-Clarins sisters, Harley Veira Newton, BryanBoy.
Celeb We’d Most Like to See Wearing It: Katie Holmes, for the first time she debuts a new man on the red carpet.
What the Line Sheet Said: “Jason has a strong belief that clothes must be as beautiful inside as out. To play with this idea he created an x-ray vision of classic silhouettes. He used transparency to highlight the workmanship but also the beauty of the feminine form.”
WTF Awe-Inspiring Moment: Seeing model Carolyn Murphy sitting in the makeup chair. She does not age.