Lanvin Sexes Up Le Smoking for Spring

How would Alber Elbaz follow his glamorous over-the-top 10th anniversary show for Lanvin? By paring it down and amping up the sex appeal. He deconstructed YSL's Le Smoking, and man is it H-O-T.
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Leah Chernikoff
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How would Alber Elbaz follow his glamorous over-the-top 10th anniversary show for Lanvin? By paring it down and amping up the sex appeal. He deconstructed YSL's Le Smoking, and man is it H-O-T.
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The Clothes: Last season, Alber Elbaz rang in his tenth anniversary designing for Lanvin with a glamorous peplum and ruffle-filled collection, a starry front row, and a song. It was the must-see show of the season. So how would he follow such a spectacle? By paring it down and amping up the sex appeal. Alber Elbaz deconstructed YSL's Le Smoking. He took the sleeves off the jacket and made it tougher and boxier; he paired the slouchy pants with a backless bodysuit; and he reworked the jacket to make a shift dress that tied up the side. The jewel-toned shifts that closed the show looked padded and like they might not look good on anyone but six foot tall rail thin models but overall this show revealed a sleeker, peplum-free, sexy-as-hell Lanvin.

The Hair & Makeup: You can't show a collection this sexy without a seriously smokey eye so that was that for the makeup. The hair was down with bangs swept over the brow.

The Soundtrack: Orchestral mixed with club mixed with Opera. This stuff only happens on the runway.

The Vibe: Only Alber Elbaz could keep the fashion pack, who are prone to complaining, waiting over 40 minutes for an 8 p.m. show to start without getting anyone riled up. It helped that he plied guests with champagne, finger sandwiches and macarons. It also helped that the setting was the breathtaking indoor courtyard of the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts--think marble pillars, a four-story high glass ceiling, and spotlit statues bordering the show space.

The Front Row: Kristin Scott Thomas, Rachel Zoe (and Rodge), Catherine Deneuve

Celebrity We'd Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Gwyneth Paltrow, Carine Roitfeld

WTF Moment: Watching Carine Roitfeld agonize over her choice of macaron, eventually settling on a chocolate one. And she charmed the pants of the macaron dude.