Libertine Spring 2013

An anti-establishment, drunk-on-Pimms English garden party that got its hands on a bedazzler and a library full of Proust. What that looks like: C
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An anti-establishment, drunk-on-Pimms English garden party that got its hands on a bedazzler and a library full of Proust. What that looks like: C
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An anti-establishment, drunk-on-Pimms English garden party that got its hands on a bedazzler and a library full of Proust. What that looks like: Crazy patterns and textural details that made up for the basic silhouettes of square neck dresses, flowy ankle-length dresses, slim-lapeled dustsweeper coats, and boxy suits. Dresses were bedazzled with crystal skullheads and alcohol bottles. Long silk chiffon English liberty dresses had panels of crochet lace and silkscreened Lichtenstein navy dots. Ivory dresses and pants with uneven, Technicolor, dripping spray paint blobs. Straw purses that resembled fancy bird cages. The men’s clothing was more politically-minded. White waxy ponchos, windbreakers and button-downs reminded us of Philosophy 101, emblazoned with text phrases like “Marcel Proust” and “the most besetting humor of men.” Libertine always has one “punny” shirt of the collection and this one’s was: “Don’t MITT Where You Sleep.”

The Hair & Makeup: Makeup was minimal. Male models were skateboard-chic, with shaved heads and visible tattoos. The girls had straight hair and blunt-cut eye sweeping bangs in blonde or brown, with a cockatiel-like spray of fuchsia and red feathers affixed on top.

The Soundtrack: “Xanadu" by Rush, “Mornin’" by Star Slinger.

The Vibe: Like a United Colors of Benetton commercial gone rogue or a model version of The Breakfast Club. Rebellious models stuck out their tongues and mugged like KISS for the photographers. The male models roughhoused, climbing and punching each other down the simulated “runway” (really, a walkway in front of white wall with a collage of Libertine inspiration images that included Pimms bottles, sharks, and Proust) and posing on top of industrial pipes. Models walked the “runway” in couples, coyly flirting with each other and the cameras. It was a nice change of pace from the usual Blue Steel.

Celebrity We'd Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Ann Romney. Any member of the Obama clan. Just kidding. Robert Pattinson, Jared Leto, Kristin Stewart.

WTF Moment: The male model in the “Don’t MITT Where You Sleep” shirt posed in skull-bedazzled Speedo underwear with his hands framing his crotch. One male model spontaneously jumped on the back of another and took off, speeding down the runway until a model handler caught on, and told them to cut it out.

Photos: IMAXtree