The Clothes: Pared down. Stripes. Mod. Black and white. No pants. Whereas last season Marc Jacobs dazzled with an elaborate Rachel Feinstein-designed set and a pilgrims-meets-Dr. Suess-meets Jamiroquai collection, for spring 2013 he stripped it down. He even stripped the pants off his models in several instances.
Even Jacobs’s line sheets, which are usually quite detailed in their descriptions of the clothes, were stark and simple. An example: “t-shirt, short” or just “suit.”
There were striped suits with skirts that sat super-low on the hips (a dalmatian print provided a brief break in the stripes), mod A-line coats, ruffled necks on tops (another nod to the ’60s), and graphic print floor length numbers, some done up in sequins, to close the show.
The sparse set, a wall of mirrored doors from which models entered to walk a simple triangular runway, emphasized the minimalist quality of this collection. But minimalist doesn’t equal no fun for Jacobs. Every girl is gonna want that cropped Mickey Mouse top from look 15. And as The Cut pointed out, the collection seemed to give a nod to the 1996 spoof on the fashion industry Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? and also heavily referenced Andy Warhol’s Factory girls. Jacobs always has a sense of humor which is oh so necessary in this business.
The Hair & Makeup: Bangs were swept to the side and hair was pulled back in a teased pony tail–very ’60s messy rocker. And in keeping with makeup trends we’ve been seeing all week, eyebrows were dark and bold while lips were muted.
The Soundtrack: “Copped It” by The Fall.
The Vibe: Anticipatory. Only Marc Jacobs can get the fashion industry riled up and fawning with praise season after season. Because he’s always showing something new, something that really feels different, that you haven’t seen done quite that way before, and that makes him the one to watch in New York every time.
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Winona Ryder, Kristen Wiig, Rachel Zoe, Alexa Chung.
The Front Row: Ricky Martin, Rachel Zoe, Karen Elson, Kristen Wiig, Rose Byrne, Kelly Osborne, Harry Louis.
WTF Moment: Ricky Martin was there?