The Clothes: Schwab tackled “tribal” for his spring 2013 collection. It’s a troublesome descriptor as it can be taken too literally, used too broadly, and at worst, can offend. But Schwab pulled it off. Sheer pleated dresses were toughened up with leather harnesses and strips of raffia. Nature also played an inspirational role in this stand out collection, particularly bumble bees. Honeycomb showed up as a print on knit tops and as a sort of lace overlay on skirts. The closing looks sparkled thanks to a sponsorship from Swarovski. Delicate filmy pleated numbers were harnessed by sparkling chains and worn over nude crystal embellished bike shorts. Yes, I said nude crystal embellished bike shorts. They simultaneously dressed up and dressed down the evening looks–and didn’t look crazy. A neat trick.
What the line sheet said: We’ll forgive Schwab his-over-the-top pretentious line sheets because he backed it up with a stellar collection. But. Really. He cited “early 20th century biologist-cum-artist Ernst Haeckel’s illustration of art form in nature,” and quoted a National Geographic writer. And there’s more: “At a time where people are taking a similar, somewhat back-to-basics stance, Marios Schwab presents a collection that reflects a world reassessing its values by looking to its own heritage.” Say what?
The Hair & Makeup: Hair was ironed straight and tucked behind the ears. A bold black swipe curved under each models’ eye.
The Soundtrack: Lisa Gerrard’s chilling chants, heavy drums.
The Vibe: Scwhab’s show was a hot ticket and the space at Somerset couldn’t hold all the editors and buyers who wanted to take in his latest collection. And so it was that big time editors from Vogue, W, and Elle were all left standing to the side.
The Front Row: Anna Dello Russo, Tallulah Harlech
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Rooney Mara, Leigh Lezark
WTF Moment: That aforementioned seating fiasco. But we’re happy to report nobody threw any diva tantrums.