The Clothes: Peter Copping‘s spring collection for Nina Ricci started with falling petals and a quote from Baudelaire:
The airs that have charm,
and that constitute beauty, are:
the air of detachment,
the air of boredom,
the air of carelessness,
the air of impudence,
the air of aloofness,
the air of condescension,
the air of domination,
the air of willfulness,
the air of malevolence,
the air of vulnerability,
the air of a kitten, a mixture of childishness,
nonchalance and mockery
We’re used to seeing sweet, beautifully feminine collections from Copping. This season he spiced things up. With some “domination” for sure, perhaps some “malevolence,” and certainly that kitten-ish mixture of childishness, nonchalance and mockery.” I expected an airy ethereal confection to come down the runway after soft white petals rained down on the runway for a good five minutes to open the show but no, it was a black suit with a mesh top and a harness underneath–something we’ve been seeing a lot of this season. Very Helmut Newton, very Guy Bourdin, very 50 Shades?
That dark and sexy harnessed vibe was an undercurrent throughout the collection. Mixed in were gathered silk skirts with knit cardigans, a surprising iridescent tweed suit, and flapper fringed dresses.
The Hair & Makeup: Sultry smokey eyes, hair up in a French twist.
The Soundtrack: Electronic, clubby.
The Vibe: Darkly romantic.
The Front Row: Elettra Wiedemann.
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Giovanna Battaglia.