Theyskens’ Theory
Designer: Olivier Theyskens

• “Theyskens’ Theory, steered by Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens, sent out a range of fluid and sophisticated looks Monday, worn by models in identical wigs, beginning and ending with scalpel-sharp tuxedo suits. ‘In this collection, I wanted something more projected, a bit more distant, and not fixed so much in our little reality,’ Theyskens told AFP backstage.” {AFP}
• “Even at their most conservative, the somber combos on the runway seem intended for a bad girl who has been up all night and has to somehow get herself to the office the next day.” {The Cut/New York Magazine}
• “The panache and demi-monde of Paris, the energy and drive of New York, the latest collection of Theyskens’ Theory was the perfect balance of both in a risqué fashion moment.” {Fashion Wire Daily}
• “The drama we’ve come to expect from Olivier Theyskens’s Theory line was in full effect for Spring 2013. This time around, however, it was infused with something new: a slouchy, relaxed sort of mood.” {fashionologie}
• “While Theyskens’ Theory offered some considered, artfully tailored pieces–think charcoal and boxy double-breasted blazers teamed with slimline cigarette trousers, or embroidered A-line jersey minidresses in neutral icy blues–most looks didn’t really push the boundaries far beyond those of chic office attire.” {Financial Times}
• “Olivier Theyskens was once known in his Paris period for a sweet, fey, wispy, couture sensibility. Now he is making affordable clothes for Theory . And perhaps some downtown customers might want a summer of dark (as in black and ink blue) coats with deep arm holes, worn with messy hair and a lot of angry attitude.” {International Herald Tribune}
• “Theyskens included a lot of big design ideas in this collection: super rounded shoulders on jackets, for example, or a gossamer-thin coat covered in icy sequins, or tweed jackets with dropped shoulders and bracelet sleeves–none of which really looked like something you would expect from the designer of Theory. Since he moved to New York to design for the label, beginning with a capsule for spring 2011, Mr. Theyskens has transformed his runway collection from something that was overtly commercial (there were corduroy jeans in an early collection) to something that could be called commercial-but-also-artistic.” {On The Runway/The New York Times}
• “Olivier Theyskens’s collection showed more vitality than last season, maybe because he gave real value to just about everything he put out on the runway, from terrific coat dresses to a crinkled blouson top to an over-scaled navy coat with a black leather mini.” {The New York Times}
• “If it was harder to pick out the hits on his runway for Spring, that’s because Theyskens isn’t playing it quite as safe anymore. … Overall, this collection felt like a transitional one. Change is never easy, but it’s a thrill to see the 35-year-old going for it.” {Style.com}
• “In all, this was a more mature collection, and the way Theyskens tells it, that was deliberate. ‘I was entertaining elegance and grace,’ he said. ‘Less of the girls, you know, and more of a projection.’” {Vogue.com}
• “For those wild at heart and with a little edge, then come close, Theyskens’ Theory is just what you’re looking for.” {Vogue.com UK}
• “This time, what in the past was a nimble fusion of Theyskens’ often strong penchant for fantastical Goth-grunge and Theory’s Theory-ness–it is a company that rose to glory by the seat of its great-fitting work pants–appeared caught in a tug of war.” {WWD}