The Clothes: After 10 seasons showing in NYC, Preen returned to its London roots–and really did its city proud with this quietly gorgeous collection. A background palette of navy and white cut in rather minimal shapes really helped to showcase the mixed prints. Snakeskin, stripes, a large rose print and chunks of leather all played nicely together on sheer airy dresses and tops. They were anchored by more solid skirts and a few pairs of trousers. The last few looks featured “silver foiled French lace” for a thoroughly modern take on lady like dressing. Loved this collection.

What the Line Sheet Said: “Buffalo 66, the darkly absurd, cult American film, orchestrates Preen’s perpetual play on the masculine and feminine for Spring/Summer 2013; the seductive innocence of Christina Ricci versus the overt masculinity of Vincent Gallo.”

The Hair and Makeup: The now-ubiquitous no-makeup-makeup, with highlighting at the temples and high on the cheekbones. Hair was 90s all the way–middle parted and tucked behind the ear with deliberate flyaways, like the models just rolled out of bed.

The Vibe: Set at the ultra-modern Darwin Centre at the Natural History Museum, it was a dramatic setting with a soaring curved wall on one side of the runway and floor-to-ceiling windows on the other. It was a packed show despite the ungodly early hour, and a very civilized tea tent set up outside the venue helped to perk everyone up.

The Soundtrack: Bird and animal sounds pre-show, then buzzy girl-power tunes while the models walked.

The Front Row: Editors and buyers (ie Ken Downing, Joanna Hillman, Taylor Tomasi Hill)

Celeb We’d Most Like to See Wearing It: Gwyneth Paltrow

WTF Moment: The models had to walk down and then back up a rather long flight of stairs. Luckily there were no tumbles.

Photos: Imaxtree