The Clothes: Tavi Gevinson was among the front row attendees at Rodarte today. A long-time fan of the label, she was wearing those black cobwebby tights from Fall 2008. With today’s collection, the Mulleavy sisters have come a long way from their first few seasons where they showed ethereal, dreamy, quilted and craft-based collections. These girls were medieval rocker princesses (or at least that’s what came to mind for me), armored in structured printed jacquard dresses with breastplates, seriously badass leather pants made of strips of leather laced together through metal grommets, and longer gowns with mullet hems and adorned with leather fringe. The color palette was dark and twisted–iridescent orange and aqua against red and black. The word back stage was that Dungeons & Dragons was an inspiration.
The first few looks out did remind me of last season’s Proenza Schouler, which means it all goes back to Balenciaga. But the LARP-y, D&D vibe was 100% Mulleavy. And those silver dragon earpieces each model wore were just so cool.
The Hair & Makeup: James Kaliardos (for NARS) described the Rodarte collection as “very Dungeons and Dragons” and originally conceived a dark eye for the look. It ended up not working, and instead the models had bare faces with a bit of blush and neutral eye shadow–”modern medieval” was the backstage buzz. Odile Gilbert (for Kerastase) gave the girls pin-straight hair, then did an extreme comb-over to one side, slicking it down to make it look almost shaved. A huge dragon ear cuff on the exposed ear added to the edginess. The nails (by CND) were subtle works of art. While they were nude and easy to overlook, we’d recommend you take a closer glance. An intricate basket weave made from wax paper adorned every tip. It took the team 200 hours to make all of them–that’s 15 minutes/nail.
The Soundtrack: The Breeders, the Cure, and Bordeaux. Like we said before, bad ass.
The Vibe: Kick ass.
The Front Row: Tavi Gevinson, Kirsten Dunst, China Chow
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Leigh Lezark, Rooney Mara, Michelle Harper