The Clothes: Kimberly Ovitz’s strong, whimsical vision for spring is a departure from last season’s darker collection, but still suggests the same confident woman. This season, fluidity and draping were contrasted with structure and sharp lines. There was a variety of pale silk dresses with raw finishes that all featured an unexpected element like a twisted and open back, asymmetrical neckline or abstract print. The creative necklines and backs did make me question what sort of undergarment situation a women would go for, but they sure did look sexy sans bra. Layering appeared throughout, with asymmetrical macrame over sheer dresses, linen and silk of varying lengths and sheerness, and a structured vest that appeared in white leather and grey jersey. Bright green silk turned up in just two looks but popped delightfully against the nudes and earth tones. Models wore sleek, silver arm bands and cuffs channeling Ovitz’s nomadic, spiritual inspiration.
The Hair & Makeup: Hair was slicked back in the front but came back into a messy fishtail in the back. The makeup was bare and minimal with a nude lip, but eyes were ethereal with a touch of bronze smudged on the bottom.
The Soundtrack: Instrumental beats.
The Vibe: Held at Pier 57, the space and decor was sparse and the show size was fairly intimate. Smoke permeated and slow, ambient music played as barefoot models walked slowly yet fiercely down a clay runway.
The Front Row: There was a random spattering of famous offspring that included Jake and Ali Hoffman (Dustin’s daughter), and Jake and Mickey Sumner (Trudy and Sting’s kids). Also, I couldn’t place the cute guy next to me, and then realized it was Marc Jacobs‘ ex Lorenzo Martone.
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Erin Wasson would look hot in the whimsical pieces (especially the vaguely sheer, backless dresses) that bring to mind her edgy, urban-boho style.
WTF Moment: The clay runway was being finished just minutes before the show, and bouncers had to stop guests from traipsing across it to get to their seats. I couldn’t help but worry about models getting their stilettos caught, but luckily they ended up being barefoot so it was all good.
What the designer said: “I was inspired by this artist Almagul Menlibayeva who is a Kazakhstani performance artist who created fictitious imagery that was spiritual and ritualistic but not pertaining to any particular religion. She provokes you to think that you can create your own mythology, and I thought that was an empowering message. This collection is nomadic, ritual and there’s a lot of flowing silks and linens mixed with harder elements and some accessories that we created out of element. Each year it is the same woman, but in a different space.”
What the line sheet said: “The color palette embodies the mood of the collection with muted earth tones and subtle hues of eggshell, ice, paper, dark nude, thunder, emerald and optic white.”