“Smarten up” seemed to be the coaches’ message Wednesday as the first big shows in Paris got underway. Enfant terrible Gareth Pugh was promoted to Varsity when he went medieval on critics–in a totally soigné contemporary way. Meanwhile, in the battle of moody romanticism between two great print houses, Dries van Noten and Rochas, Dries’s flannel à la française scored a touchdown–and that’s how the game was won.