The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 3 of Paris Fashion Week

Thursday designers went back to school--in some case, literally--as Alber Elbaz commenced his second decade at Lanvin with a concise essay on those icons of French femininity, le smoking and the LBD, at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière earned top marks for his more-pragmatic-than-usual collection inspired by the house founder's ballet costumes, while at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing was deemed a quick study in the pop culture of the decade in which he was born.
Avatar:
Author:
Publish date:
Social count:
69
Thursday designers went back to school--in some case, literally--as Alber Elbaz commenced his second decade at Lanvin with a concise essay on those icons of French femininity, le smoking and the LBD, at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière earned top marks for his more-pragmatic-than-usual collection inspired by the house founder's ballet costumes, while at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing was deemed a quick study in the pop culture of the decade in which he was born.

Image Title1

Thursday designers went back to school--in some cases, literally--as Alber Elbaz commenced his second decade at Lanvin with a concise essay on those icons of French femininity, le smoking and the LBD, at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière earned top marks for his more-pragmatic-than-usual collection inspired by the house founder's ballet costumes, while at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing was deemed a quick study in the pop culture of the decade in which he was born.

Image Title2

Balenciaga Designer: Nicolas Ghesquière

  • "Balenciaga struck a high note at Paris Fashion Week Thursday, sending out a couture-inspired look part pure and part playful." {AFP}
  • "A game changer. Precise cuts and clean lines were Ghesquière's answer to fashion's current print and embellishment overload." {All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times}

  • "There was distinct tailoring and reality-based silhouettes. But in each piece there was also a bit of daring-do, a reminder that you don’t have to yell in order to be heard. Because a confident voice, with an original message, can whisper and still capture our attention." {The Daily Beast/Newsweek}
  • "Ruffles and ridges! Who else but Nicolas Ghesquière could make the girliest of motifs feel so architectural?" {Daily Front Row}
  • "It's not with every collection that sex appeal and extreme craftsmanship go hand in hand, but then again Nicolas Ghesquière isn't every designer." {fashionologie}
  • "Nicolas Ghesquière's talent lies in combining flounce with edge." {The Guardian}
  • "Mr. Ghesquière’s Balenciaga has been 15 years in the making. But he has never offered such a confident vision. He took the rigor of the founder; the steely geometry of his cut--swirling, Spanish shapes--and mixed all that with a 21st-century freedom of flesh." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "In one sense, the lean tailoring and white squared-off tops, with their Catholic overtones, brought his designs back to his roots at Balenciaga, when the clothes attracted a girl force. But in another way, this collection was confidently grown-up, as if Mr. Ghesquière knew he had nothing to prove." {The New York Times}
  • "All the talk this season is about the rivalry heating up between the new guys at Dior and YSL, Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane. But don't count Nicolas Ghesquière out. This is a man who, if he didn't invent the heritage brand reinvention, has certainly mastered the art. And his fantastic new Balenciaga collection was a case study in how he's done it season in and season out for the last decade, by putting an utterly modern gloss on intense study of the house's archives." {Style.com}
  • "[A] collection of exceptional, understated modern elegance." {Vogue.com}
  • "Ghesquière is nothing if not a fashion mathematician--his rules and style equations always setting the benchmark for what is to come." {Vogue.co.uk}
  • "Adieu, clunky officewear! Bonjour, accessible high chic!" {WWD}

Image Title3

Balmain Designer: Olivier Rousteing

  • "Glam rock was the keynote at Balmain where designer Olivier Rousteing sent out graphic silhouettes in black-and-white harlequins motifs, glittery embroidery on their shoulders." {AFP}
  • "The high point was the wicker-embellished cropped jackets that growled like a fierce, feminine exoskeleton." {The Associated Press}
  • "Did we mention the shoulders? Ultra-wide--wider than the Décarnin days--and just a touch softer, they added a dose of humor to this otherwise femme fatale-friendly look." {Daily Front Row}
  • "The quality of these clothes is unmistakably superlative. But the moment for that 80s silhouette has passed." {

    The Daily Telegraph}

  • "A runway show that could have easily doubled as a George Michael music video." {FabSugar}
  • "A bravura performance, where he blended elements of New Wave, haute glam and Latin rococo grandeur." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "He has also learned to temper his excess. There were simple tops and pants and tailored pieces in dark blue denim, sleekly tailored, moving Balmain far away from the scruffy-de-luxe look of its revolutionary shift from classic to cool." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "Olivier Rousteing of Balmain said he was inspired by Cuba (and Sade and her style of wearing men’s blazers over bra tops). Balmain has been a lot more upbeat since his arrival last year, and intricately constructed dresses that are delightfully ostentatious are becoming his specialty." {The New York Times}
  • "Rousteing's exuberance is hard to fault. But he was on to something with those simpler leather and denim pieces. A little less couture aspiration and a little more cool would be a good place to start next season." {Style.com}
  • "This show had that sizzle, pushing silhouettes far enough to be challenging and backing them up with bold pattern and a level of bravura embroidery skill that touches the level of couture." {Vogue.com}
  • "More successful among the collection ... were the denim pieces--shirts and jackets which were desirable and wearable, something that at times couldn't be said necessarily of everything else." {Vogue.com UK}
  • "While there is no denying that the young designer’s workmanship was exquisite, i.e. the crystal beading on jackets and the elaborate basket weaves for minidresses, it often left heads spinning." {WWD}

Image Title4

Lanvin Designer: Alber Elbaz

  • "Tuxedos everywhere. Lanvin sent out a dazzling variation on the classic theme as its designer Alber Elbaz closed day three of the Paris ready-to-wear shows for next spring." {AFP}
  • "Tough girl glamour with a wink. Well done." {All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times}

  • "Alber Elbaz professed to be redefining the classics this season, but then again, isn't that this designer's overriding M.O.?" {Daily Front Row}
  • "He took the classics--the tuxedo, the little black dress, the one-shouldered gown, the bow--and built from them the most intense shoulder lines, bold and square. ... Who better than Alber Elbaz to champion women at their boldest?" {ELLEuk.com}
  • "A superbly fun show with plenty of Parisian glamour for all." {FabSugar}
  • "Carefully balancing a soupçon of the street--like cut off biker jackets--with couture cutting, Elbaz made a brilliant expression of tough chic." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "After last season's shebang for Lanvin's 10th Birthday, how on earth could Alber Elbaz top it this time round? By starting from scratch and taking us back to school--literally." {Grazia Daily Magazine}
  • "Mr. Elbaz skillfully deconstructed everything." {The New York Times}
  • "This was a rebellious sense of classicism, more Manet's sex-drenched Olympia than the (h)armless (forgive the joke) Venus de Milo. ... There is something in the risk-taking that suits the designer to no end." {Style.com}
  • "The twin lodestars of Parisian chic, the tuxedo pantsuit and the little black dress, but deconstructed in an effortless sequence of variations." {Vogue.com}
  • "There was a lot to take in--most notably what seemed to be an emerging new chapter in the Lanvin story." {Vogue.com UK}
  • "The effect was chic and young, a modern kind of sexy for a woman who likes to look like she didn’t try too hard to look amazing, her pretense secured by a remarkably crafted dress." {WWD}