The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows from Day 5 of Paris Fashion Week

Pop quiz: Design in Paris is A) conceptual B) kinda weird C) joyous D) all of the above. On a day that zipped from Space Age sportswear at Junya to crushed can crowns and Comme, Report Card can tell critics were thinking really deeply about meanings. So extra credit goes to Jean Paul Gaultier for interrogating the dichotomy between a runway show and a concert--and reminding us all that fashion is also FUN! Here's what the critics were buzzing about.
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Pop quiz: Design in Paris is A) conceptual B) kinda weird C) joyous D) all of the above. On a day that zipped from Space Age sportswear at Junya to crushed can crowns and Comme, Report Card can tell critics were thinking really deeply about meanings. So extra credit goes to Jean Paul Gaultier for interrogating the dichotomy between a runway show and a concert--and reminding us all that fashion is also FUN! Here's what the critics were buzzing about.

L-R: Comme des Garcons, Jean Paul Gaultier, Junya Watanabe

L-R: Comme des Garcons, Jean Paul Gaultier, Junya Watanabe

Pop quiz: Design in Paris is A) conceptual B) kinda weird C) joyous D) all of the above. On a day that zipped from Space Age sportswear at Junya to crushed can crowns and Comme, Report Card can tell critics were thinking really deeply about meanings. So extra credit goes to Jean Paul Gaultier for interrogating the dichotomy between a runway show and a concert--and reminding us all that fashion is also FUN!

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Comme des Garçons Designer: Rei Kawakubo

  • "Was she smiling when she made this collection? Not to poke fun at her audience--‘Huh, they’ll buy anything, this fashion lot’--but actually smiling with pleasure? Because it looked like a whole lot of fun to make. It remains to be seen if it will be a whole lot of fun to wear." {ELLEuk.com}
  • "If Rei Kawakubo had shown for spring the flat-plane collection of last season, she would have seemed, as the fashion world puts it , “right on trend.” But the formidable designer for Comme des Garçons was far ahead of the curve--or, more correctly, ahead of the rigorous geometry that she had created previously." {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "There was a romantic quality to the silhouettes, which featured hats made from crushed cans and other materials. But there was the obvious analogy to the amount of waste in a consumer culture. ... As usual, Ms. Kawakubo gave a lot to contemplate and enjoy." {On the Runway/The New York Times}
  • "In this Paris fashion week's Game of Thrones stand-off, perhaps this collection was a reminder of who is the reigning queen." {Style.com}
  • "A collection which seemed to be about the process of designing itself, haphazardly crushing all the scraps and revisions of the toile-stages of dressmaking and tailoring into soft-sculpture composites." {Vogue.com}
  • "The clothes seemed anxious and the fabric choices intense--it was deliberately not wearable at times, for this was a point being made about fast fashion and as the collection progressed was illustrated even further with looks taking on a piled-on quality. They were wrapped and layered within an inch of their life." {Vogue.com UK}
  • "The new stuff was still well within the classic Comme des Garçons range, wonderfully weird in a familiar bunched-up, blobby way." {WWD}

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Jean Paul Gaultier Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier

  • "From Madonna to Michael Jackson, Grace Jones to Sade: Jean-Paul Gaultier feted the pop and style icons of the 1980s on Saturday with a rebelliously joyful collection." {AFP}
  • "'This show is based on facts. Any similarity with real events or characters is purely non-coincidental.’ Expectations ran high, given he created Madonna’s most iconic look at the height of her powers. So, once the Kiss tribute band had been settled on the front row, the Jean Paul Gaultier cabaret-cum-pop-quizz began." {ELLEuk.com}
  • "A good time was had by all--especially the designer." {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "Jean Paul Gaultier’s show tonight was an absolute hoot." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "Did he disappoint? Um, the show was a fabulous cabaret; the clothes were, in many cases, an impressively accurate redaction of the style of the original performers. But the relevance for now?" {Style.com}
  • "'Be the pop star you want to be,' might have been Gaultier’s mantra as he romped through a platinum disc–worthy greatest hits collection." {Vogue.com}
  • "This was less a fashion show and more a concert--fashion press up and out of their seats to sing and dance along to favourite sartorial soundtracks." {Vogue.com UK}
  • "Gaultier’s riff on pop music, featuring groupings dedicated to the Eighties’ biggest names and a terrific soundtrack to match, made for an entertaining musical revue." {WWD}

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Junya Watanabe Designer: Junya Watanabe

  • "The speed and variety were intoxicating. But was it a comment on our out-of-control consumption of sportswear, the pace at which it is manufactured, the global churning out of manmade fibres? Or was it purely a display of what is achievable when a talent such as Watanabe collaborates with the sportswear giant Puma." {ELLEuk.com}
  • "Talk about sportif." {fashionologie}
  • "The dynamism of Junya Watanabe’s show was inspiring." {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "Junya Watanabe’s show on Saturday morning had the kick of an energy drink." {On the Runway/The New York Times}
  • "While there may have been a looking back to go forward in this collection, what he presented was utterly contemporary in feel, something both new and now. It was one of the most exciting shows of the week." {Style.com}
  • "He too has caught the coming season’s sense of urgency around clothes that feel performative in real and meaningful ways to women in their everyday lives. If you happen to be feeling the same way, you’re in luck here, because Watanabe’s versions were thoroughly winning." {Vogue.com}
  • "Junya Watanabe has joined the cyber space race." {Vogue.com UK}
  • "At the core, the designer worked an activewear theme with a Space Age bent, which for the most part offered an edgy take on gym garb." {WWD}