There’s always something very specific inspiring jewelry designer Eddie Borgo.
Last season his collection was influenced by the cogs and gears and machinery hidden beneath New York’s city streets–the stuff that makes Gotham hum. This season he did a bit of a 180. For spring 2013, he was inspired by a person–the legendary, the infamous, stylist Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, and her work from the late ’80s and early ’90s. (And so you can add Borgo to the list of designers feeling the ’90s this season.)
“She’s known for this accessorized-to-the-hilt sensibility,” Borgo explained at the luxurious apartment over looking the gardens of the Palais Royale where he shows his collections during Paris fashion week. “She really loved costume jewelry, she always used it in her editorials as you can see,” he said, gesturing to his mood board chock-full of awesome Cerf editorials from the late ’80s and early ’90s featuring supes like Linda Evangelista dripping in bling. (We were particularly smitten with an old Chanel ad featuring Evangelista jogging in a grey sweatsuit dripping in ropes of gold chain and big sparkling double “C”s.) “The collection is also inspired by all of the runway jewelry from [’80s and early ’90s] shown at Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and at Chanel of course–it was really status jewelry. We’re looking at status jewelry as a category in this collection and really trying to modernize it.”
To that end, Borgo took large statement pieces–like a big pendant necklace, oversized chain link necklaces and pentagon studded cuffs–and made them a bit sleeker, more geometric, and multifunctional. A double strand chain link necklace turns into a shorter choker or a bracelet. And what girl doesn’t want three pieces of jewelry for the price of one?
And in keeping with the style of status jewelry from the ’90s–Borgo kept things all gold. Which is new for him. “We typically were doing gold in the beginning just for certain clients,” Borgo said. “We had a huge following for our gold pieces throughout the Middle East…and now I just think it’s starting to look really fresh again.”
Another first for team Borgo? Jewelry boxes. Imagine the chicest kaboodle you can–black leather, gold hardware–and you’ll start to get the picture.
Click through to see Borgo’s spring collection in all its golden glory.