There’s something transformative about Lindsey Thornburg‘s signature cloaks. Despite their simplicity, they make you feel like the coolest woman in the room or on the street. It’s all about the subtlety of the silhouette, the drape of the hood, not to mention the utter softness of the eco-friendly Alpaca.

Over the last few years Thornburg has developed a cult following for her namesake brand of urban-witchy cloaks, which expanded into a larger range of garments in 2010. Her pieces are all produced locally, though some fabrics are sourced ethically from South America, and range from $200-$2000. The Colorado native says without a doubt Frida Kahlo is her ultimate icon, but she also seeks inspiration in nature and even from David Lynch. Her latest lookbook was shot where Twin Peaks was filmed in the 90s and Thornburg’s whimsical, somewhat gothic designs are brought to life in the eerie setting.

We sat down with the designer in the basement of her Lower East Side store surrounded by copious amounts of Pendleton (she recently partnered with the heritage brand on a collab) and Alpaca. Read on to learn how the former philosophy major built her business.