The Clothes: If you’re bummed you didn’t get one of those Kenzo sweatshirts this fall, the uniform for Sunday’s show (and the uniform for fashion month in general) fear not: There are more in store for spring 2013.
Creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created a cool girl’s safari wardrobe for Kenzo’s spring collection. They were inspired by the “vibrant jungles of Asia” and created a wardrobe for living in the urban jungle. There were leopards and tigers and jaguars (oh my!) on sweatshirts and denim and on golden belt buckles and hidden in graphic prints. Speaking of prints, Leon and Lim introduced two which are sure to be a hit: a “psychedelic forest print” which, they explain, is what they imagine the jungle looks like through night-vision goggles; and a camouflage leopard print that came in tangerine, turquoise and mustard on bustier peplum tops, baggy pants, and inset on super cool boxy jackets. We’re calling it now: leopo-flage is the new flamo.
Leon and Lim pulled out Kenzo’s signature off-the-shoulder dress from the archives, and showed it on blouse-y tops over slim pants and pencil skirts, and on an army olive green maxi dress on Sessilee Lopez. Olive green, along with orange and a frosty ice blue, comprised the palette.
If last season’s must-have was the sweatshirt, we’re predicting the boxy safari and jean jackets inset with graphic jungle and leopo-flage prints as the sell-out for spring.
The Hair & Makeup: Kenzo’s girl is too busy being cool to worry about things like doing her hair or makeup. Also she’s so pretty she doesn’t need to bother. Hair seemed to be purposefully undone (parts were even crooked!) and we couldn’t detect a trace of makeup.
The Soundtrack: Blood Orange.
The Vibe: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim know how to make things, yes, cool. They chose a judo center for the show venue with two tiers of seating–balcony and on the floor around the “mat.” It was tricky to get to both the venue and one’s seat, which only helped to build anticipation.
Before the show started, a set of four screens set up in a square in the center of the
dojo runway played an amazing set of shifting graphics–floral jungle prints, leaping tigers, elephants, graphic shapes, surreal, trippy landscapes–that ran throughout the runway show. I have to admit it was a little distracting: When I see a lit up screen, I can’t look anywhere else. (Yes, this means I watch a shit ton of bad TV.) For the finale, all the models stood inside the screened off square so you could just barely make them out.
The Front Row: MIA, Leigh Lezark and Geordon Nicol of The Misshapes, Jean-Paul Goude, Delfina Delettrez, Anna Dello Russo, Chiara Clemente, Nicolas Godin, AIR, Jen Brill, Olivia Kim.
Celebrity We’d Most Like to See Wearing this Collection: Assorted it-girls and street style stars.
WTF Moment: I mean, where to start? The fact that the venue was a judo center, the projections, the leaping tigers, the Momofuku Milk bar animal cookies on every seat? Leon and Lim think of every detail to pull off the coolest show.