Francisco Costa presented a soulful and stirring pre-fall collection for Calvin Klein, injecting a material complexity into the his standard clinical precision. Double-faced fabrics held structural shapes and revealed hidden second tones as under-collars were flipped up and cuffs back, while slits and vents permitted slivers of skin to peek through coating-weight fabrics. It evoked, for me, that louche strength embodied by Fallingwater, the famed ultra-modern building situated in rural Pennsylvania that is considered one of architect Frank Lloyd Wright‘s finest works.
In much the same way that Wright’s iconic design seamlessly dialogues with the Pennsylvania woodlands in which it sits, Costa’s collection juxtaposed elements of technology, science, and design (glazed leathers inspired by Naugahyde finishes) with those that speak to nature (hi-sheen, flat-furs in deerskin tones). A 70s midi-length, A-line silhouette lent visual texture through the styling of pilgrim-buckle belts, and was made modern via the collection’s continued exploration of pontoon-shaped sleeves.
Edited and concise, this is one of the rare demi-season presentations that will certainly influence the Fall 2013 shows in February.