Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2013: Art and Commerce

The Proenza boys have gone even more graphic than usual for Pre-Fall 2013, playing with high impact black/white contrasts and painterly lines.
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The Proenza boys have gone even more graphic than usual for Pre-Fall 2013, playing with high impact black/white contrasts and painterly lines.
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The Proenza boys have gone even more graphic than usual for Pre-Fall 2013, playing with high impact black/white contrasts and painterly lines. In a merchant-driven demi-season fueled by the need to enliven sales floors with new product, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have smartly curated a "best-of" from their archive made fresh through abstract-expressionist interpretation. One can discern the Franz Kline influences within their cleverly subtle logo print. Cut in spiral-seamed pants and carwash-hem skirts, their brand moniker is chopped into an artful swirl of feathery letters and brush strokes.

Adding urban edge to this arty mix, McCollough and Hernandez offered a must-have, blown-out Perfecto jacket with cleaned-up detailing. These toppers had a generous, martial arts proportion (a continuation of themes floating through their collections since last Spring). The traditional Asian costume references also surfaced in dresses and coats with broad-binding edges and wrap-closures found on judo jackets. That's where the similarities end though, as the collection's mottled-metallic fabrics elevated these clean shapes to modern glam heights.

Most intriguingly, a high-contrast, spectatored turtleneck served as an unexpected underpinning throughout the looks, offering a practical new layering concept for bare dresses come cool weather.