This proverbial “baton-season”–passed from one designer to another–rarely yields the most daring of deliveries (see Dior during the Bill Gaytten seasons for evidence).
According to WWD the house’s resident creative team took the reins, curating an understated but compelling assortment of Balenciaga mainstays. It was a retrospective of sorts, worked to chronicle those commercial pieces that performed most consistently during the Ghesquière tenure, as well as honor the founder Cristobal Balenciaga’s enduring craftsmanship. WWD notes, “the name invoked during a preview of the collection, designed by the studio team, was the one on the door: Cristobal Balenciaga.”
The structured trenches, awesomely awkward pants, and vintage prints, editors and customers alike have grown to covet were all present-and accounted-for–though they were notably void of Ghesquière’s penchant for robotics and 80s cyber-fare. This time around, the collection’s haberdashery fabrics, blouse-weight Celia Birtwell-inspired prints, and dandy styling conveyed a Swinging 60s vibe, echoed in a beastly thrift-store-find coat–an item emerging as key for the season–cut in a mottled blush-tone fur.