Long Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–600 candles laid out in two perfect concentric circles inside the industrial Halle Freysinnet lit up Riccardo Tisci’s elegant fall collection.
The collection was the perfect union of couture and streetwear. Tailored looks were mixed in with streetwear elements. Sweatshirts with digital prints were worn with slim wool trousers. Lapels were stripped from jackets and coats to distill their architectural lines. Stellar winter coats–leather down puffers, biker jackets, a knee-length duffle–seemed fitting given the snow falling outside. Zippers sliced through the sides of jacket and coats served to empasize the precise cutting techniques.
Of course, it would would not be a Givenchy show without looks that oozed of sex. In this show it was the shiny leather hot pants peeking out under puffer coats tied at the waist, and sheer silk socks that brought attention to the models’ muscual legs.
That the collection did not at any point veer into familiar Tisci territory–the skirts, the leggings–proved how the designer has matured in his role at the creative helm of the brand. He no longer required those edgy clothes or nose-to-ear rings to make this collection sticks its landing.