Mugler

Even though Mugler creative Nicolas Formichetti–along with designer Romain Kremer–showed the label’s fall 2013/14 men’s collection at the same venue he did when he relaunched the dormant brand in 2011, so much has changed.

Formichetti’s first collection for Mugler men’s, though accompanied by much buzz (remember how Lady Gaga, at the height of her fame, created the soundtrack for the show), was so high concept and borderline unwearable that it lacked serious grounding.

But at this week’s show honoring the 40th anniversary of the Mugler heritage, all that hype and showmanship were abandoned. In lieu, Formichetti chose to create a sporty Mugler man. One-button wool suits in navy, dark green, and fuchscia paid homage to the house’s broad-shouldered silhouette.

The collection centered around aeronautical and military aspects done in a familiar range of Mugler colors: royal blue, fluoro yellow, hot pink. A padded wool vest made to resemble a bullet-proof vest was worn over black and grey knits. There were many strong outerwear pieces: a double-breasted knee-length coat, blue wool storm coats, oversized trenches, that should be great performers at retail come fall.

High waisted pants with velcro closures done in royal blue, a lime green patent leather jumpsuit, and hot pink collared bullet-proof vest added that necessary fashion quotient.