The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 1 of Couture Fashion Week

In case you were watching a certain inaugural fashion spectacular on this side of the Atlantic and missed the first day of couture fashion week, here's what critics had to say about the shows: Donatella Versace put the she wolves in chainmetal, Giambattista Valli toed the line between flora and fauna, and at Christian Dior, Raf Simons upped the ante one million flowers.
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In case you were watching a certain inaugural fashion spectacular on this side of the Atlantic and missed the first day of couture fashion week, here's what critics had to say about the shows: Donatella Versace put the she wolves in chainmetal, Giambattista Valli toed the line between flora and fauna, and at Christian Dior, Raf Simons upped the ante one million flowers.
Versace, Dior, Giambattista Valli

Versace, Dior, Giambattista Valli

In case you were watching a certain inaugural fashion spectacular on this side of the Atlantic and missed the first day of couture fashion week, here's what critics had to say about the shows: Donatella Versace put the she wolves in chainmetal, Giambattista Valli toed the line between flora and fauna, and at Christian Dior, Raf Simons upped the ante one million flowers.

IMAXtree

IMAXtree

Atelier Versace Designer: Donatella Versace

  • "It was high octane glamor for Donatella Versace, who kicked off the haute couture season with a front row of celebrities and a sculpted razor-sharp set of silhouettes." [The Associated Press]
  • "It's not always easy making couture look modern, let alone relevant to anyone other than a Hollywood stylist looking to bag a haul of red carpet show-stoppers. But Versace's pinstripe suiting, threaded, like the denim pieces, with real gold looked sharp and, depending on your profession, business like, and the balance between the ethereal light fabrics and architectural shapes was well handled." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "It’s safe to say that Versace chainmail is as razzle-dazzle spectacular now as it ever was." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Hello! Oscar calling! No Donatella, not Oscar de la Renta—he’s taken John Galliano for an internship. This is the Big Oscar. The one that every star in the world dresses up for. And I cannot tell you how much we are LOVING your Versace Atelier collection." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Most of Donatella Versace’s latest designs had some geometric element, whether in the cutting or embroidery. A black, so-called 'anatomical dress' with gold pin-striping, black fox nestled on the shoulders, and a slash of bare flesh from cleavage to hip done, seemed made for Jennifer Lopez." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "This was Versace old school style, so legitimate that Stella Tennant and Kristen McMenamy were there beside Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls." [SHOWstudio]
  • "It was appropriate to show this collection in a temple to Mammon: Versace used her Midas touch to turn everything to gold." [Vogue.com]
  • "This was a full-blown Versace fest, taking all the traditional Versace ingredients—sequins, bling and neon—and wrapping it up in lashings of gold.”" [Vogue.com UK]
  • "Is elegance essential to haute? Intentionally or otherwise, Donatella Versace posed that question via the Atelier Versace collection she showed on Sunday night to open the spring couture season. Though her program notes referenced an architectural inspiration and the contrast of fragile glass against iron and steel beams, this show was really about one thing: sexy dressing at its most upbeat and unapologetic." [WWD]

IMAXtree

IMAXtree

Christian Dior Designer: Raf Simons

  • "Apart from the staple hourglass shape that's familiar Dior territory, Simons experimented away from the house DNA, with colored sections on ensembles which seemed to grow in stages, like a plant shoot. This produced some of the show's best looks." [The Associated Press]
  • "Spring was indeed in the air." [

    The Daily Mail]

  • "First up: pastel cocktails and a neon jolt. Artistic director Raf Simons layered them with the gusto of a pastry chef piling on delicious fondants." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "Raf Simons brought the most beautiful breath of spring to snowy Paris." [Grazia Daily]
  • "The Dior story, as told by Simons for a modern audience, embraces the fragrant femininity associated with the house, but draws out other themes from the history of the house, which have lapsed from fashion's attention-span-challenged consciousness." [The Guardian]
  • "Flowers budding, blossoming, dabbing their sweet spring colors against the greenery, the Christian Dior show on Monday was a garden of earthly delights." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "It was an astonishing show, full of lightness, hidden layers of embroidery and dazzling color combinations. Beforehand, he admitted that some of the spring-hued colors—grass green, poppy, lilac, periwinkle—were new to him as well." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "For his second show at Dior Couture, Raf Simons presented a pixie walking in rows of green hedges. Her look is playful and layered, taking cues from the ladybird beetle's shell in shape (yellow geo capelet) though in tone more luna moth (soft mint green)." [SHOWstudio]
  • "When Simons took Haute Couture back to the garden this season, he opened up another world, and this one's our favorite. It's that world of infinite possibilities." [Style.com]
  • "The spirit of spring, of budding flowers and of hopeful rebirth, filled the Christian Dior show space with ineffable prettiness and joyful optimism. That optimism was rewarded with a sophisticated, poetic show that defined Raf Simons’s romantic-modernist vision for the house." [Vogue.com]
  • "Slow and steady, after all, wins the race—a sentiment that certainly seems to be ringing true with Simons." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "If the audience wondered how Simons would top his couture debut last July, with its million flowers plastering the walls of a Parisian town house, here was their answer: While similar in theme and allure to his fall couture offering, his spring collection was even better." [WWD]

IMAXtree

IMAXtree

Giambattista Valli Designer: Giambattista Valli

  • "The show started nearly an hour late, forcing an all-star front row that included Anna Wintour; the United States ambassador Charles Rivkin and his wife, Susan; Salma Hayek; Ms. Radziwill (again); and the omnipresent Brant Boys (seemingly on their third outfit of the day) to impatiently cool its heels. The clothes that followed were nice enough, but you would be hard pressed to say they were worth the interminable wait." [On The Runway/

    The New York Times]

  • "By some fortunate alchemy, the collection he presented tonight took those antique Roman codes, twirled them around, and deposited something old-but-new on the catwalk." [Style.com]
  • "'Flora and fauna.' These twin themes tidily divided the show, which opened with a worldly animalier theme—tiger, ocelot, and leopard prints and weaves, as well as oversize python and crocodile and alligator scales—all reinterpreted in Dolce Vita black and white." [Vogue.com]
  • "It’s because Valli is a master of beautiful fabrication, exquisite embroidery and details that his shapes, though overall difficult in this collection, are able to work." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "While the modernist allure was at times reminiscent of the new-look Dior under Raf Simons, Valli knows his devotees expect a little pizzazz. And so with the likes of Salma Hayek, Lee Radziwill and Bianca Brandolini looking on, the clothes eventually blushed with pale color and accrued more riches." [WWD]