If you’re an animal rights activist and especially if you are PETA, read no further and do NOT click through the gallery.
Joseph Altuzarra luxuriated in leather and fur for his fall 2013 collection–a massive black and white intarsia fox fur coat elicited ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from the crowd. Cruella de Vil would have loved it.
The designer said he was inspired by the street–the “hard surfaces,” the “black skyline at dusk,” the “glint of the pavement after the rain.” But whoever walks on Altuzarra’s street is loaded. Because for Altuzarra, “the street” translated to a rich, dark, and powerfully sexy collection. There were no pom poms or jangly coins like last year’s collection. Everything was black and white with a few splashes of forest green and khaki. The silhouette was a more restrained version of the late ’80s/’90s power suit with more than a nod to Mugler in his heyday: Shoulders were strong, waists were nipped in, and hips were exaggerated. You could see Altuzarra’s champion, Carine Roitfeld, in almost every look, especially the body-con leather numbers with zippered slits up the front. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux described the collection as “fucked up french ladies going shopping on the Avenue Montaigne,” and he meant this in a very good way.
Tailoring has always been Altuzarra’s strong suit, and this collection showed off his skill in that department to great effect. The suit jackets and pencil skirts hugged the models’ bodies for maximum sex appeal, giving them curves even when they weren’t there. The styling was especially compelling: Melanie Huynh and Vanessa Traina layered Altuzarra’s leather biker jackets over trench coats–a look that The Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine told me she wanted to try out immediately.