Anthony Vaccarello burst on to the Paris fashion week scene (which, by the way, isn’t an easy scene to burst on to) a few seasons ago. After winning both the Festival d’Hyères and ANDAM prize he presented a memorable spring 2012 collection of ultra-sexy silk black dresses with cut outs galore and slits up-to-there, including that hip-bone exposing number Anja Rubik famously wore to the Met Ball. More recently, Jennifer Lopez wore one of Vaccarello’s slit dresses to the Grammy’s, ignoring CBS’s modesty rules.
Unsubtle sex appeal is part of Vaccarello’s DNA. But for fall 2013, it seems he’s looking to make things a bit more accessible to the everywoman instead of just to the Anja Rubiks and Karlie Klosses of the world.
While those signature flesh-exposing cut-out dresses were there to close the show (this time they were slinky black ’70s-inspired styles that had an entire strip cut out at the side and filled in with what looked like washers sewn together), much of the collection had a more relaxed, not so body-con silhouette. Slouchy leather or silk tops were paired with tight leather mini skirts studded with metal hardware. (The shoes were studded too–a nail drove right through the tops of black booties.) A few knit tops softened up leather looks. Long, boxy overcoats belted low at the waist made several appearances. Perhaps Vaccarello is making a push to become more commercially viable-many of these separates were extremely retail friendly.
He didn’t lose himself, though. Strips of washers sewn together, a motif which ran throughout the collection, showed up along the hems of asymmetrical mini skirts, on sleeves, and up the sides of little black dresses. The collection was still sexy as hell.