The show notes promised a collection inspired by Oscar Niemeyer’s “Brasilia,” the city constructed entirely in swirling, sculptural concrete in the late 1950’s. An interesting reference, and one that lends itself incredibly well to the master of architectural clothing, Antonio Berardi.
Jackets and trousers were typically sharply structured, and worked in dizzying cement-block prints. The collection was largely grey, navy and forest green until the arrival of unexpected burgundy croc-embossed dresses and electric blue furs. Architectural details were present in the heel shapes, and made for a stunning debut for the designer’s first shoe collection (in previous seasons the shoes were Manolo Blahnik for Berardi).
The Niemeyer influence was subtle but striking–especially in the clear crystal panels across the shoulder blades of dresses that actually looked like windows. This detail was repeated in white squares on the back of the plush fur coats that will definitely have a long waiting list when they hit stores this fall. In all, it was a sharp, modern collection that took an inspired reference and adapted it cleverly to the designer’s signature aesthetic.