We're spending the week skulking around backstage at some of the hottest (and coolest) shows at New York fashion week to bring you the best beauty looks, new products, and gossipy tidbits that we pick up in our travels.
We started our week backstage at big designer shows like Jason Wu (where we got a very tiny sneak peek at his forthcoming Lancome makeup collab), as well as indie shows like Creatures of the Wind, where makeup artists were not afraid to experiment. We got all the inspiration behind the looks, some application tips, and even some impromptu nail tutorials.
So click through to check out the beauty backstage at Jason Wu, Rag and Bone, Rebecca Minkoff and tons more.
Jason Wu's beauty look is a favorite every season, and he stuck with his signatures for fall 2013--elegant hair with a unique twist and a strong makeup statement.
Hair (Odile Gilbert for Kerastase): We're saying this upfront: This is not a DIY look. Even Gilbert said jokingly, "Why should I tell my secrets? They're never going to do it!" Wu wanted an Art Deco feeling, a style which includes a lot of graphic 'crossing' elements. Gilbert braided the hair first and pinned the braid to the base of the scalp as an anchor, then took straight pieces and placed them in the pattern. The secret to that shellacked look? Kerastase Elixer Ultime and lots and lots (and lots) of Double Force Control hair spray. Lots.
Makeup (Diane Kendal for Lancome): "Jason was so passionate about [the color of his finale dress] that he wanted to use it on the eye," Kendal said. Kendal did a softer cat eye, graphic but blended. Unlike the hair, you can totally replicate this look. She used a purple liner to make the shape, then filled it in with pigment, and topped with a purple shimmery shadow. Word from the Lancome reps is that this blue indigo color will be included in Wu's forthcoming makeup collection, though no deets yet on what it will be called.
Rag & Bone
We expect a certain cool girl messiness from Rag and Bone every season. That was the case again for fall 2013, but with a few new (and welcome) twists, and the barest trace of a 60s vibe.
Hair (Guido Palau for Redken): Rag and Bone does the best cool girl hair every season. Unlike the hair at Jason Wu, this one is totally accessible. Palau described it as "feminine but boyish and a bit Edie Sedgwick." He did a low side part--using Redken Guts for texture, Powder Refresh for that Rag and Bone matte bedhead, and Quick Tease in the pony for the spiky texture. After you rough dry your hair into a side part, drag into low pony, use the product, and pin. But you need it to be a bit disheveled, so then pull out some hair at the crown for a bit of a 60s look.
Makeup (Gucci Westman for Revlon): Westman originally tried a neon orange eye liner but scrapped it because, "The Rag and Bone girl would never wear that on her eyes." The graphic line was meant to look like the models did it themselves. She didn't want to get too literal 60s, so the line (using a black gel liner) starts in the middle of the lid rather than at the tear duct, and extends out further than normal--Westman wanted the look to read 60s, but be less referential and retro. She used nude lip color for "healthy Downton Abbey lips."
The rally cry backstage at Helmut Lang was, "Girls are coming from Rag and Bone with black eyeliner! Be ready to get it off!" That pretty much sums it up: Everything was kept bare (or made to look bare) for a decidedly minimalist look.
Hair (Paul Hanlon): Hanlon was too busy getting all the storm-delayed models ready for the show to walk us through the look, but it was your classic bedhead. Models walked around with braids in, which were then artfully undone, brushed and mussed. The late comers got a sort of crimp with a curling iron.
Makeup (Hannah Murray for NARS): Murray wanted "boyish beauty," accented by strong and defined masculine brows (using a new NARS brow wax product which will hit stores soon). The look was monochromatic, with creamy skin and lustrous eye color which was achieved by using lip gloss on the eye.
Nails (Essie): The look was matte stone, using Essie's St.Tropez and a matte top coat.
Hair (Johnny Stuntz for Luxhair Wow): Hair was simple, probably so as not to distract from the wow factor of the jewelry. Stuntz did a chignon using a combo of the model's own hair and the Wow Pony Fall hair extensions.
Makeup (Jenny Smith for NARS): We love the inspiration, which was Margot Tennenbaum. The look is "somber but not goth." Every model had a different lip, depending on what they were wearing. Blush was Renaissance inspired, meaning applied lower on the face. Extra blush was applied under the eye to give the look a "sad feeling." Aww.
Nails (Katie Hughes for butter LONDON): Hughes created a moody Hollywood glam look with one of three color choices: Yummy Mummy, La Moss, and La Moss with Saucy Jack on top.
The disco age meets modern girl was the beauty vibe at the colorful Kate Spade presentation.
Hair (Tommy Buckett for Garnier): Disco glam, "Andy Warhol party hair." It was a 70s tease with volume at the roots, lots of shine, and a bouncy curl at the ends. Some girls had a low bun chignon, products from Garnier.
Nails (Deborah Lippmann): "Kate Spade nails are an accessory," Lippmann said. There were two looks: "Pink with a zing," which was a mixture of three colors or a "shiny shiny black." Nails were long and almond shaped with a pyramid stud at the base (bought from MJ Trimming in NYC.) Lippmann's advice when it comes to appliques? "Less is more!"
Makeup (Neil Scibelli for Jouer): "So much of the look is an ode to NY. It's a winged black cat eye and the statement piece is the red bold lip," Scibelli said. Indeed, we've seen countless girls sporting this look both backstage and in the front row at fashion shows this week.
An oil slick as inspiration. We get it.
Hair (Jean Syfu for Tresemme): Stick. Straight.
Nails (Essie): Oil slick nails were matched to a handbag from Minkoff's space inspired collection. Five different Essie colors like Blue Rhapsody (all metallics) were individually placed on the nail using a series of dots. "You just polka dot it on! You can be really really messy and place them wherever," the manicurist said. (The model she was doing it on loved it so much that she wanted to try it herself--so she did.) After you paint the multicolored polka dots on your nail, take a toothpick and gently swirl the color together using an "S" shape.
Face (Sarah Lucero of Stila): The eye makeup was a "super bold, matte, almost Crayola thick liquid liner" in cobalt blue.
Creatures of the Wind
Hair (Odile Gilbert for Kerastase): Gilbert used the Damaged line from Kerastase and a triple barrel curling iron, starting with a "middle part, really really sleek till the top of the ears." The look? "A young girl with a touch of sophistication on top."
Makeup (James Boehmer for NARS): Skin was kept matte so as to keep the focus on the eye, which was a rose gold geometric cat eye. Boehmer used a combo of two NARS Multiples (Maldives and Copacabana, layered under eye shadow) to make the color, which matched the shoes in the collection.
Nails (Roxanne Valinotti for CND): Is that static? Movement, waves, squiggles in teal, orange, and brown. Valinotti used a small toothpick to make the lines.