Backstage Beauty Brief: Proenza Schouler, Marchesa and More

Yesterday was a day of beautiful, impeccable hair and makeup. Proenza Schouler's girl was a bit dirty and downtown (as she usually is), Marchesa's was regal (ditto), and Anna Sui's was, well, you'll just have to see for yourself! Click through for all the hair and makeup looks from Proenza, Marchesa, Rachel Zoe, and Anna Sui.
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Yesterday was a day of beautiful, impeccable hair and makeup. Proenza Schouler's girl was a bit dirty and downtown (as she usually is), Marchesa's was regal (ditto), and Anna Sui's was, well, you'll just have to see for yourself! Click through for all the hair and makeup looks from Proenza, Marchesa, Rachel Zoe, and Anna Sui.
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We’re spending the week skulking around backstage at some of the hottest (and coolest) shows at New York fashion week to bring you the best beauty looks, new products, and gossipy tidbits that we pick up in our travels.

Yesterday was a day of beautiful, impeccable hair and makeup. Proenza Schouler's girl was a bit dirty and downtown (as she usually is), Marchesa's was regal (ditto), and Anna Sui's was, well, you'll just have to see for yourself!

Click through for all the hair and makeup looks from Proenza, Marchesa, Rachel Zoe, and Anna Sui.

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Proenza Schouler:

Hair (Paul Hanlon for Fekkai): If the hair looks a bit familiar to you, that's because it's pretty much the same style that Hanlon did for the Proenza boys two seasons ago. "We tried things that were sort of different, but it just didn't feel like the spirit of [Proenza Schouler's] girl," Hanlon said. "They loved the show we did two seasons ago; the hair just felt more personal." Hanon described the clothes as "almost couture" so they wanted the hair to be "real." Hanlon's team ran the girls to a salon down the street from the venue to wash their hair, then they let it air dry while tucked behind their ears. They added Fekkai silkening balm to make it a bit lank, like a girl was wearing a beanie and she took it off. This is truly a look anyone can replicate.

Makeup (Diane Kendal for MAC): Kendal also tried to go out on a limb for the Proenza boys this season at the makeup test. "I did just a single line [on the eye], but there is a lot going on in the clothes, so we kept the look minimal," Kendal says, which is always Proenza Schouler's beauty buzzword. In the end, the look was natural and fresh, with a sheer lipstick added to cheeks for a healthy glow.

Marchesa:

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Hair (Odile Gilbert for Kerastase): Since the clothes are so sophisticated and theatrical, the team wanted the hair to be young and touchable. Gilbert described it as, "I wanted it to look like when the models' mothers come to a casting and do her daughter's hair herself." So it's that perfectly imperfect hair we've been seeing all week, but this time in a twisted, messy knot. Gilbert recommends breaking up a sophisticated party dress with playful hair so you don't look too "serious."

Makeup (Gucci Westman for Revlon): "There's a Victorian feeling to the clothes so the girls are super clean so as not to feel red carpet-y," Westman said. This is no-makeup makeup, with a dusty rose lip and perfect skin.

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Anna Sui:

Makeup (Pat McGrath for CoverGirl): A 60s-inspired, dramatic graphic cat eye. McGrath laughingly told us that this look could totally be translated to real life, since "girls look far more outrageous nowadays." Inspired by the films of Truffaut and Goddard and girls like Brigitte Bardot, Sui wanted the girls to look like "cool, amazing, brave young girls." To balance out the richness and patterns of the clothes, the face was largely monochrome. Using a black eye pencil to draw an initial exaggerated, winged cat line on the top lashline, she later filled it in with black liquid liner, adding white eyeliner to the corners. The bottom lash line had stop/start gaps of liner. Some makeup artists hand-drew the gaps, while others used a Q-Tip dipped in eye makeup remover to create the effect. Nude lips and a little bit of creamy pink blush on the cheeks finished the look.

Hair (Garren): As we've suspected now for a while, "Hair off the shoulder is where it's going now," Garren told us backstage. With that in mind, Garren decided that for Sui's French Wave cinema inspiration, "the ideal looks were Karlie's haircut and Jamie [Bochert] having her hair cut blunt, swinging with the bangs. We cut [Jessica] Stam's hair today. She's got a bowl cut. She went from hair down past her shoulders to today, we took it the rest of the way off."

To simulate short hair for the rest of the girls, Garren and Sui were specifically drawn to a picture of Catherine Deneuve from the 60s, with a teased, high pony. "We decided to take the hair up, tease it, and fold it under into a pageboy."

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Rachel Zoe:

Makeup (Charlotte Tilbury for Maybelline): Rachel Zoe told Tilbury that she wanted the girls to look like "young Kate Moss's with a golden glow and a badass lip." To that end, Tilbury did an oxblood stain on the lip, and made it matte and "smoked out," without harsh lines so it wouldn't be "madame looking." (PS: It didn't.)

Hair (Odile Gilbert for Kerastase): The hair for Zoe is "what you do in winter when you have long hair and a coat--you just stick your hair in it," according to Gilbert. She did a messy take on the wrapped pony, putting the elastic low at the nape of the neck and keeping the pony loose. It looked fantastic.