Anna Sui:

Makeup (Pat McGrath for CoverGirl): A 60s-inspired, dramatic graphic cat eye. McGrath laughingly told us that this look could totally be translated to real life, since “girls look far more outrageous nowadays.” Inspired by the films of Truffaut and Goddard and girls like Brigitte Bardot, Sui wanted the girls to look like “cool, amazing, brave young girls.” To balance out the richness and patterns of the clothes, the face was largely monochrome. Using a black eye pencil to draw an initial exaggerated, winged cat line on the top lashline, she later filled it in with black liquid liner, adding white eyeliner to the corners. The bottom lash line had stop/start gaps of liner. Some makeup artists hand-drew the gaps, while others used a Q-Tip dipped in eye makeup remover to create the effect. Nude lips and a little bit of creamy pink blush on the cheeks finished the look.

Hair (Garren): As we’ve suspected now for a while, “Hair off the shoulder is where it’s going now,” Garren told us backstage. With that in mind, Garren decided that for Sui’s French Wave cinema inspiration, “the ideal looks were Karlie’s haircut and Jamie [Bochert] having her hair cut blunt, swinging with the bangs. We cut [Jessica] Stam’s hair today. She’s got a bowl cut. She went from hair down past her shoulders to today, we took it the rest of the way off.”

To simulate short hair for the rest of the girls, Garren and Sui were specifically drawn to a picture of Catherine Deneuve from the 60s, with a teased, high pony. “We decided to take the hair up, tease it, and fold it under into a pageboy.”