Backstage Beauty Brief: Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta and More

The last two days have been pretty colorful backstage. From Chloe Norgaard's neon hair and tons of statement lips everywhere, it's been pretty fun to look at. But don't worry, there's plenty of wearable inspiration too, in the form of Kate Moss hair and dewy skin. Click through to check out beauty looks from Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang and tons more.
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The last two days have been pretty colorful backstage. From Chloe Norgaard's neon hair and tons of statement lips everywhere, it's been pretty fun to look at. But don't worry, there's plenty of wearable inspiration too, in the form of Kate Moss hair and dewy skin. Click through to check out beauty looks from Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang and tons more.
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We’re spending the week skulking around backstage at some of the hottest (and coolest) shows at New York fashion week to bring you the best beauty looks, new products, and gossipy tidbits that we pick up in our travels.

The last two days have been pretty colorful backstage. From Chloe Norgaard's neon hair and tons of statement lips everywhere, it's been pretty fun to look at. But don't worry, there's plenty of wearable inspiration too, in the form of Kate Moss hair and dewy skin.

Click through to check out beauty looks from Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang and tons more.

Rodarte:

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Hair (Odile Gilbert for John Frieda): Gilbert wins--best hair at fashion week so far. OK, Rodarte-exclusive model Chloe Norgaard and her neon hair made it that much more striking, but it was still amazing. Gilbert took two braids on each side of the head and attached them in the back, and made a rosette out of the loose ends. I watched her do it and still cannot explain how it was done. #hairmagic. The whole look was topped off with barbed wire headbands for some models.

Makeup (James Kaliardos for NARS): The inspiration was California beaches, so Kaliardos wanted the models to look like their mascara had melted off. Rather than having the models sit in a sauna for an hour, he applied two different brown shadows, then used gel liner dotted on with a mascara wand and smudged. In case you ever want to look like your mascara melted.

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Nails (Tracylee for Sally Hansen): This show also wins favorite nails. Tracylee did a nude nail with a different metallic French tip on each finger--the metallics were all custom made for the show, but Sally Hansen will be selling three of them. We must have the "Gold Roses."

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Oscar de la Renta:

Makeup (Gucci Westman for Revlon): The makeup team had their work cut out for them at this show--there were 49 models who were sporting four different makeup looks. Inspirations? Kate Moss, Faye Dunaway, and gypsies, to name just a few. "There are four different types of girls [in the show]. There's really no relationship [between them]," Westman said."There's a pureness in all the girls, but they didn't need to tie in, we didn't have to have a story. I was asking John [Galliano] if he wanted a theme or a thread, but he said no." One thing he did want? "Weird, sick lip color." So that's what he got in the form of a very strange matte coral orange and an almost grey metallic. The gypsy look was meant to look greasy.

Hair (Orlando Pita): Backstage was on full lockdown, so we didn't get to speak to Pita, but he created five different hair looks, ranging from Kate Moss bedhead to really wet marcel waves for the "gypsies." He also did some classic ODLR romantic updos using hair ornaments.

Nails (Oscar de la Renta): Two new colors debuted on the runway, which you can snag today. Covet (a rich mulberry) and Asphalt (a shimmery charcoal) appeared on models' nails, and a third color Dare (teal) rounds out the trio.

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3.1 Phillip Lim:

Hair (Paul Hanlon for Frederic Fekkai): In my humble opinion, this was the most covetable, sexy hair of New York Fashion Week, inspired by the eternal reference, Kate Moss. It's that elusive, done but not too done look. "She went out dancing all night, spent the night at her boyfriend's place and then walked off the street into the show." Using Fekkai's Luscious Curls Wave Activating Spray, Hanlon used a 1.5 inch curling iron to create very, very loose natural waves. Depending on the length of the girl's hair, he gathered up free random pieces and looped them in with a bobby pin, to give the effect of a girl's hair being loosely swept up by a coat collar.

Makeup (Narcelle Daly for NARS): A sophisticated but edgy look. The focus was on perfect, dewy skin with a luminous, sophisticated red/chocolate brown lip. Daly used NARS' new compact cream foundation (out Fall 2013) to perfect the skin, explaining, "This girl spends quite a bit of time in the mirror before she leaves. She's not an edgy girl where she just wakes up and goes. She might spend 10-20 minutes." To achieve the chocolate-brown lip, she filled in the lips using a red brown lip liner (Kenya), deepening the red with a brown eyeliner pencil (Mambo).

Nails (Essie): Deciding that "[his girl] wouldn't do something traditional," Lim chose a beige yellow (Sand Tropez) for hands. To get his asphalt/car paint toes, they layered a dense silver (No Place Like Chrome) over a sheer metallic grey (Over the Top.)

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Vera Wang:

Hair (Paul Hanlon for Moroccan Oil): Hanlon said something very wise backstage today, "It's very easy to do crazy hair, it's A, B, C, D. [This style], it feels real, but it's very hard to do." He was deconstructing yet another iteration of that perfect done, but undone look, with the inspiration at Wang being, "a slightly dangerous girl," a little Kate Moss with Charlotte Gainsbourg thrown in. He described it as "making beautiful hair and then destroying it." The hair looked languid and soft, with a relaxed center part, and a very soft bedhead wave (created with a curling iron), with most of the attention to the hair around the face. Wang wanted the front pieces slightly stringy and nonchalant.

Beauty (Lucia Pieroni for Cle de Peau): I'm starting to lose track of how many times I've said this phrase this season, but it's all about the lip. Specifically, a lip simulating a "blown rose." Today I watched, entranced, as a set of makeup artists spent about 20 minutes perfecting a model's rosebud mouth, creating "a strong dark color, [that's] very soft around the edges." It's not a goth mouth. The lip was achieved using two new shades for Fall: Mister Lincoln (306) and Tuscany (308.)

Nails (Jin Soon Choi): Designed to complement the dark grays, soft pops of orange, and purples of the collection, Wang and Choi went with an elegant, soft grey with a hint of lavender (two coats of Auspicious), a shade that's not too chalky or opaque.

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Betsey Johnson:

Hair (Rodney Cutler for Cutler/Redken): All wigged out. Cutler didn't bother explaining how to answer the classic "how do you achieve the look at home" question, because why bother? You wouldn't need to replicate this look unless it was Halloween and you were looking for the perfect hairstyle to accompany your Jazzercise leotard. Models had sleek, low ponytails, topped by choppy, fluffy, straight mops of hair. They purposely sought out the cheapest, most synthetic wigs possible because "why try and make it look serious?" Although they did nix the idea of a green wig, laughing because it didn't look "natural."

Makeup (Domenico Briguglio for Stila): Mod-mania with a Peggy Moffatt reference, with top and bottom "dolly" lashes. After drawing a graphic, swept out eye contour using their Smudge Stick in Turquoise (out September), he glued a row of straight lashes on top, with a liberal dose of mascara. For the bottom, he alternated the trimming of an eyelash piece, to create a long/short/long/short lash effect.

Nails (Elegant Touch): Betsey Johnson nails kick ass, literally. Using a black as a base (Little Black Dress), they gave a B, J, and KicksA to each digit of the finger using a white (All White Out.)

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Alice + Olivia:

Hair (Antonio Corral Calero for Moroccan Oil): It was a bohemian, free-spirited look, with wide braid plaits pinned up Heidi style, and loose, lightly wavy pieces, prepped with Moroccanoil Treatment. He also did long, loose chignons that were loosely tied with forward falling strands. Girls who wore ball gowns also got real red-rose wreaths, handmade just a few minutes before the show.

Makeup (Sarah Lucero for Stila): Another beautiful dark red lip that is the focus of the look, along with a gold, shimmery eye pop (Metal Eyes Foil Finish Shadow.) Lucero used Stila All Day Lip Vinyl Gloss in Merlot (a test color for Fall), but for anyone that doesn't have it at their disposal, they re-created it using Black Cherry with Daring Stila Long Wear Lipcolor, mixed in with Natasha Color Balm.

Nails (Elin Dannerstedt of NCLA): Models got one of three options: metallic blue (Call Me for the Afterparty), fiery red (Rush Hour), or a black and white graffiti plaid nail sticker (an Alice and Olivia collaboration due out Fall.)