“Brood is always about pairing opposites,” designer Serkan Sarier explained at his Fall 2013 presentation, held in the the Gramercy Park Hotel’s cozy Rose Bar. “This season I wanted to pair two complete different prints and sensibilities. The first one is an 18th Provencal print, and the second is an op-ed print that is inspired by Victor Vasarely, which is this very graphic, geometric op-ed print. That’s the starting point for the collection.”
It may sound like a pretty obscure starting point but Sarier has already proven in the six seasons he’s been in business, that he can turn seemingly irrelevant references into fashion gold. The result, this time, of Sarier’s diverse inspirations, were pieces paneled with a black-and-white print, and a dainty wallpaper-esque print, sometimes paired with tailored grey outerwear.
As is always the case with Brood, there were athletic-inspired details, such as exposed zippers on the front a peplumed dress, and a drawstring waist on a cocktail frock, to add an unexpected twist to the already unique designs. They also added consistency. And that’s the thing: For a young label, Sarier has managed to really create a secure brand identity without getting pigeon-holed. He’s still exploring the same things from his first few collections–parchutes, corsetry, bold prints–but in a way that feels entirely new and fresh.
It’s no wonder, then, that his designs have found a following among the more daring red carpet crowd: Sarier counts Emma Watson and Rihanna as fans. “It just happened really organically,” Sarier said of the red carpet endorsements. “Rihanna–I think she went into Barneys and bought it [off-the-rack.] We were really happy about that.”
If things keep going the way they’re going for the label, Sarier, who said he’d love to add accessory and jewelry categories in the future, will probably have a lot more to be happy about.