If the sharp shouldered coats and oversized roller belts didn’t clue you in, the machine gun soundtrack drove the message home: Calvin Klein creative director Francisco Costa was doing military for fall.

His take on the trend was all about structure: strong shoulders and wide lapels on coats; stiff leather tops and paneled skirts. There was a rigidity to the collection–the fabrics used were stiff, thick, and unyielding–but Costa injected sex appeal by way of bandeau tops that exposed a bit of midsection (looks 7 and 14) and skirts with peek-a-boo holes lined up in a grid pattern.

We’ve seen many takes on the evergreen military trend this season but Costa’s take for Calvin Klein was one of the strongest yet.

Photos: IMAXtree