Nostalgia meets modern. 1967 California Music Festival meets ’60s folk. East meets West. Unstructured meets structured. Slouchy meets sophistication. These are just a few of the contrasts Chadwick Bell told me he was looking to explore this season, using a rich soundtrack as design inspiration. “I started with Simon and Garfunkel [and then] Carole King. I used to go surfing with my dad at 5 AM and he would always have Carole King on in his big 150s.”
Unlike Bell’s spring girl–who was lost and desperately roaming the desert–fall’s muse knows exactly where she is going. She’s got a fixed eye on the future, but a nostalgic view of the past in her rearview mirror, and that duality was reflected in the clothes.
Key to this exploration was a focus on outerwear: Richly colored coats in black currant, persimmon, and beetle green with modern edges, but retro details, like roundly sloping silhouettes sitting a few inches off the shoulder and a slightly exaggerated trapeze shape. The coats looked sensual and relaxed, playing against the clean and structured lines of Chadwick’s tailored trousers and boxy tops in neoprene (perhaps a nod to the early morning surfing trips?) and flannel. “I wanted to create wide shapes [to make you wonder], ‘What’s under that?’” Looks were styled with large chunky graphical necklaces strung with fist-size resin bangles from Dinosaur Designs, which Bell hoped would add “something worldly” (and almost vaguely tribal) to his designs.