Christian Siriano’s girl got a whole lot more grown up over the course of one season. Gone were the pastel twinsets, polka dots, and ballerina buns of last spring, replaced by sophisticated pencil skirts, intricate gold hardware detailing and rich (though faux) furs for a collection the designer says was inspired by “the golden age of the Russian Opera.”
Siriano interpreted the theme for his tenth season in the most literal sense–from the dramatic crystal chandeliers that hung in front of draped red curtains in his show space, to the haunting soundtrack composed by his partner Brad Walsh with vocals by mezzo soprano Ilene Pabon. The collection was comprised entirely of black and gold with a few metallic fuchsia pieces sprinkled in. Gold filigree and embossed velvet referenced Siriano’s most immediate influence, the ornate interiors of Saint Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatre.
Faux fur accented shoulders and sleeve cuffs; a pencil skirt constructed entirely of the stuff (worn with a knit crew neck) was delectably tactile and not the least bit Wilma Flintstone. Flouncy fishtail silhouettes and slim-fit trousers had a decidedly timeless, ladylike quality. Sheer black head scarves paired with sexy ’50s-esque minidresses verged on Bardot funeral fare. The final look, an entirely transparent, over-the-top glam confection made mildly-more modest only by gold embellishments, jingled as it sauntered down the catwalk.
The collection’s shoes were once again part of Siriano’s on-going collaboration with Payless (one of which–”LeToille”–will be available for purchase February 18 for just $30). Accented with vintage-looking brooch and ring details, the designer described them as being “really about jewelry; simple shapes that are still really luxe.”
Actress and reluctant fashion muse Shailene Woodley, who came out to support Siriano for one of only two shows she attended all season, summed up the collection succinctly: “I just love his stuff. I think it’s so powerful and strong.”