Emilio de la Morena’s show today was full of the staples we’ve come to expect this Fall 2013 season–pleated skirts, heavy fabrics, oversized overcoats, and masculine trousers. There was a boxy flannel jumpsuit, some super sexy cut-outs, and a hefty dose of boiled wool.
But what set this collection apart was the innovation de la Morena applied to these seemingly basic pieces. The pleated skirts were open, having singular pleats with a gap between each one like a thigh slit. Models trudged down the runway to “Do the Mussolini” by Cabaret Voltaire, a late 70’s/early 80’s soundtrack that matched the geometric disc pattern that covered trapeze dresses and shirts shown midway through.
The standout feature of this collection was his woven technique. Woven fabrics were a huge trend for spring, but de la Morena has taken this idea and amplified it to a whole other level. Huge strips of wool were pieced together to create a boxed look with square cut outs and then worked into dresses, coats, gilets, and sleeveless tops. In reality this was far less gimmicky than it sounds, and added some much needed diversity to an otherwise simplistic if lovely show.