Erdem got in touch with his dark side this season–quite literally–with an almost entirely-black collection.

It was a bit of an unexpected turn for the designer who first entranced the fashion set with his dainty florals and colored lace–not that he abandoned those motifs entirely. His signature florals were there this season–only darker, moodier, and more three-dimensional. Designers this season seem to be making their standout patterns with texture instead of color–at Erdem, a digitized floral print was created with palettes, giving the impression of a pixelated photo. The print was then matched, or encased, with black sheer panels. Another muted floral print, which appeared on dresses and jackets, looked to be stamped on a kind of brocade or embroidered fabric. Later, a black-on-black rose pattern was created using velvet on wool, a pattern which appeared on sheer paneled eveningwear and outerwear.

Sheer was an important fabric for Erdem this season. Eveningwear was sliced through with the stuff: There were sheer slits at the elbows, shoulders, hems, and waists of dresses. It was also used to create a multi-layered effect–another way Erdem played with texture this season. Fluffy pink marabou looks, for instance, peeked through structured black sheer–and a sprinkling of feathers also accented the center of embellished flowers, which were themselves stamped on black sheer fabric.

Also worth noting: Erdem eyewear, the result of a collaboration with Linda Farrow. The glasses were statement-making and just plain cool looking–boding well for Erdem’s future in accessories.

Photos: IMAXtree