For fall 2013, the Gucci girl is all about contradiction–in the most titillating way possible. She is, for the most part, completely covered up, and yet at the same time there was something risqué, almost perverse about her.
Maybe it was all the leather turtlenecks. We’ve never contemplated ever wearing one, but this collection convinced us it might be a thing next season. Worn underneath sculpted suiting, the leather turtlenecks definitely contributed to the dominatrix vibe of the collection–especially since, when worn with elbow length gloves and knee-high boots, it gave the impression that the model was completely coated with leather underneath her jackets and skirts. In case you didn’t get the Dom vibe yet, designer Frida Giannini made her point clear with a handful of form-fitting, all-python looks, which would look as at home on Rihanna as at an S&M shop.
But when she wasn’t indulging her dominatrix side, the Gucci woman was the epitome of ladylike elegance (lady in the streets, freak in the sheets?). Dresses and blazers were expertly tailored, flaring out ever-so-slightly at the hips to emphasize the waist; the wiggle dress and the skirt suit, both big in the 1940s, were important silhouettes for the collection. The palette, too, recalled that era: Dark oranges and teals, browns, olives, and a dark plaid. The latter looked as if it was silk screened onto fabric rather than woven, which put a modern spin on the dresses and suits it adorned. The rounded shoulders on jackets and dresses also spoke to a fashion history lesson from ’60s couture.
Giannini clearly considers her eveningwear separate from the rest when designing–something that’s evident in her clothes as well as her show’s production. The lights were turned all the way down, and the music turned more melancholy for a series of evening gowns (and one evening pant) which sashayed down the runway on the backs of Karlie, Joan, and Anja. There were a lot to them: Silky, liquid-looking skirts, sheer netting, sequins, feathers, and some of the most vibrant colors seen throughout the collection. We’re not sure all them totally worked (there was a lot going on)–but they certainly put an exclamation point on this darkly sexy collection.