If there is one constant at New York fashion week that I can rely on, it is the fact that Helmut Lang will show multiple jackets I will covet, tons of leather I will lust after, and a slick modern print. Check, check, and check for fall 2013.
The jackets this season came in a few different shapes. There were form fitting moto styles, boxy biker jackets, long and lean blazers, and even a few dusters. The jackets were fabricated from different materials for a nice play on texture–for example, a fur lining that continued onto a lapel gave a biker jacket some softness (and it also screamed, “Buy me next fall, Cheryl!”). The show notes call the look “sharp slouch.” Leather accents toughened up everything from coats to the waistband of trousers. Because if a Helmut Lang girl is doing trousers, they obviously must be badass.
The overall palette was one of black, white, and cream punctuated by electric blue and peach. The prints this season were cubist in nature, and they overwhelmed a few pieces. There was colorblocking galore, but obviously when I say color, I mean black and white. In a twist on colorblocking, different fabrics were used on garments for the same sort of effect, except with texture instead of color.
Andrew Rosen, who gallantly gave up his front row seat to a late, shivering editor, positively beamed during the show. Helmut Lang’s DNA is strong, so why mess with success?