Katherine Polk continues to pursue a push-and-pull dialogue of masculine details and ladylike fragility for her third Houghton presentation. This season found her at times conceiving a complex story of stark, graphic paneling, and at others spinning sultry tales of YSL-referenced feathers and “flou.” This intentional duality could be seen as well within the collection’s material contrasts: plonge leather was shirred to create the waistband of a low slung skirt, while ostrich-feather clouds landed precariously at the empire-line on a parade of cocktail and evening looks.
Longer lengths continued to be the Houghton signature, with lace providing intriguing elements of sheerness and textural layering. Only three seasons into the game, Polk is still finding her voice within the collection’s daywear range; slim pants and pussy-bow blouses were chic, but not successfully experimental in the manner of the presentation’s evening offerings. It’s within the latter that Houghton’s DNA was most discernible; lace accented gowns exemplified that Truman-Copote-Black-and-White-Ball, uptown-downtown mix that is both so mesmerizingly cool and so undeniably New York.