If Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2013 collection was tailored to the sensual sartorial toreador (sartoreador, if you will), La Perla’s latest offering is what she’s wearing underneath. Or more likely, in the bedroom–most of the pieces were far too elegant, intricate, and muy–MUY–caliente to warrant covering up.
This was lingerie as an artform. Masterful construction made even the skimpiest pieces (of which there were many) feel anything but vulgar. Many gave the illusion of sheerness in what could’ve been compromising areas–but miraculously, there was nary a nipple in sight. Colors ranged from fiery red to muted forest green, black and blush tones. Delicate lace chokers and detailing offered subtle allusions to the romantic Latin lifestyle that inspired Italian creative director Giovanni Bianchi.
As he explained to me, “The Spanish culture maintains a very special soul that in Italy, we’ve a little bit lost. Women in Spain in the ancient century used to cover their heads with this lace–like a shawl, that was always in black–and we tried to replicate that with some old documents from an antique dealer, as well as the light matador jackets.” As for the collection’s title? Bianchi’s calling it “Duende”–or, as he translated, “The soul than you can find in Spain.”