If there’s one item to invest in come fall 2013, make it a cape–or at least that’s the case that Schwab’s most recent collection makes.
The designer opened his show with a series of long, cape outerwear, styled with shorter shift dresses. These segued into shiny evening coats, belted with ribbon, and short wool shift dresses–but Schwab came back to the cape silhouette towards the end of the show, with a knitted dress fashioned with an attached cape, and strapless mini-frocks (suitable as eveningwear) with caped sleeves attached at the bodice. The latter created a pretty cool visual effect–as if the dress had been sliced at the top. That effect was mimicked in the brand’s accessories, particularly the footwear, which I can only describe as a ballet flat attached to leather shin guard.
The collection was called “Calligrams,” and Schwab used that reference to create flowery black designs on dresses and sweaters. The palette stuck mostly to a moody mix of navy, oxblood, and black. All in all it was a cohesive, solid collection, which, while containing several beautifully constructed and designed pieces, was far from knock-your-socks-off.