It’s easy for young designers to get pigeonholed. They become known for one particular thing and then the fashion set expects them to show it time and again like a trained puppy. Not Mary Katrantzou. The designer took a step back from her signature wallpaper-esque prints this season, to show a more pared-down, architectural collection.
In place of her brightly colored graphic prints, Katrantzou used turn-of-the-century black-and-white photography as the jumping off point for her collection. The photos made spooky landscapes of stiff, angular dresses, some of which were crafted with exaggerated folds and rounded shoulders. Color seeped in subtly and beautifully: An iridescent rainbow lit up the sky on one of the photo prints, while pale blues and pinks accented others.
This season Katrantzou used texture, not color, to create some of her most standout looks. A long sleeve leather dress with voluminous rounded shoulders was stamped with an intricate print, while a knit dress was criss-crossed with graphic bold lines. The final looks, Katrantzou’s version of evening, consisted of structured garments close to the body, enveloped in sheer panels. One model walked with her arms inside sheer wings. The effect was positively ethereal, something which the show’s creative production augmented: Before models entered on the runway, their shadow could be seen from behind when they approached the screen.
We’re looking forward to seeing how Katrantzou’s aesthetic continues to grow and mature in future seasons.