“Edie Campbell goes to Russia” was how Misha Nonoo described her Fall 2013 collection, the designer’s sixth since relocating to New York from England more than four years ago. The collection, a mashup of classic English tailoring and Russian military aesthetic, reflected that sentiment to a T.
Slim cut, borrowed-from-the-boys jackets were paired with girly gowns and cocktail dresses–English countryside chic at its most editorial. Beyond-soft black Rex rabbit and raccoon fur accents ramped up the the richness of the outerwear and fluffy oversized cossack hats that topped off several outfits.
Nonoo described one recurring motif, the magpie (on a printed blouse as well as a totally darling intarsia’d sweater), as representative of the designer herself: “‘Magpie’ is actually my nickname–I just love shiny everything: Jewelry, buttons…” she told me, referring to the English bird notorious for its storied thievery. A striking grayscale print of florals and smoke, which Nonoo says she futzed with for months to create an ideal mix of romanticism and quirkiness, appeared throughout the collection as well.
Micro hem lengths on skater skirts and shorts kept Prince of Wales checks from looking stodgy. A chunky cashmere sweater felt particularly fresh in a cropped length, while a red silk gown elevated the “refined yet quirky” Nonoo girl to a whole new tier of sophistication.