Now in its fourth season, Pierre Balmain is definitely forming an identity outside its parent line. While Balmain’s luxe, rock ‘n roll vision is certainly at the heart of the label’s DNA, there is also a pared down, street wear accessibility that gives it a niche all its own. This season was sort of a combo of the boho-rocker debut collection (the one that had those videos starring a groovy Abbey Lee) and last season’s more polished, streamlined range. And, true to form, it had the whole ridiculously hip French girl vibe down pat.
There were plenty of the cool-girl staples like fringed suede (on a biker jacket and on pants), leather (dresses, pants, biker jackets) and gold embellishments. Sexiness was never overt, with slim turtlenecks and knits offsetting short hemlines and jackets thrown over evening looks–like the black evening gown with a boxy, suede biker jacket hanging off the shoulders. Seperates were slightly masculine with subtle tuxedo and western detailing.
Outerwear definitely stole the show. The oversized biker trench from look 6 would make any wardrobe very happy, as would the wool and cashmere cape with big, gold buttons from look 11. Silhouettes were on the roomy side, which added to the tomboy feel of the collection.
Meanwhile, the menswear was more tailored. The bombers, blazers and motorcycle jackets were worn slightly shrunken. While he looks good, the Pierre Balmain man definitely takes a back seat to his girl. She’s definitly as cool as ever, and getting more sophisticated with age.